Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Stage 2 Going from DE+t to DET

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 1-10 of 31
2014-05-21 19:45:46
#1
Stage 2 Going from DE+t to DET
I´m running a 10:1 highport sr20de on 10psi with a TD05h turbocharger, the car was dynoed at 303bhp/310nm on a MAHA dyno.

It as been great so far, pretty reliable and fast... but on hot days i see knock on my SAFC2, i know it´s not 100% exact but... also i don´t feel confortable running this much power/torque on a stock DE motor.

Already have a 70A gearbox and ordered the M´factory LSD(waiting for it) for my stage 2, wich will not be for more power, but reliability, since i plan to track it often.

Already have s14 8.5 pistons and 17mm rods to go in
Have a spare DE 8CW block in good condition

Plan to:

-ACL race bearings
-GTIR oil pump
-Lightweight Flywheel and crank pulley
-SR20DEH 4CW crankshaft(worth it?)
-SR20VET metal headgasket(genuine)

The bottom end will be balanced professionally in this engine tuner locally.

Is this a good strong bottom end? I don´t plan to run much boost or RPM, just want it strong and fast, i really don´t see the need to go forged and ARP the head, or am i wrong?

Mind i´m on a very strict budget, and i´m on EU also, don´t have acess to alot of things, but plenty of de/det/ve leftovers
2014-05-21 22:04:07
#2
dont plan to run much boost or rpm yet build a motor to do just that. does that make sense? Stock de is all you need buddy you aint even close to maxing out that motor. you lower the comp and run 10lbs it will feel slower than the setup you have now

measuring knock on a safc shouldnt be why you need to change to a whole new motor. Get a nistune or something of that sort and really get into tuning that motor
Last edited by morgans432 on 2014-05-21 at 22-05-10.
2014-05-22 16:47:40
#3
Originally Posted by morgans432
dont plan to run much boost or rpm yet build a motor to do just that. does that make sense? Stock de is all you need buddy you aint even close to maxing out that motor. you lower the comp and run 10lbs it will feel slower than the setup you have now

measuring knock on a safc shouldnt be why you need to change to a whole new motor. Get a nistune or something of that sort and really get into tuning that motor



The sense is that i have a spare block laying around, that i want to build, just in case, and if i´m gonna do it, better do it nicer.

I also can make it faster with this lighter bottom end, making more of my setup, not needing bigger injectors/standalone or MAF just now, i just spend big bucks on a 70A and waiting for the LSD to be shipped.

Eventually i will go nismotronic, nistune, MS whatever, already have bigger MAF, injectors are not hard to find, but right now would like to build a stronger bottom end to put in together with the gearbox and LSD.

Boost will came later, i´m limited by my managment, injectors, clutch etc, can´t buy all at the same time.

So if you could use only nissan OEM parts bin for a block what would it be?

Mainly my two questions, is th 4cw crank(that i can get for cheap) worth it for turbo? And at what power/boost levels are ARP studs needed?
2014-05-28 02:05:14
#4
A stock motor will take that 303 whp and smile. What ECU are you using with the S-AFC? Is it a turbo ECU?

With the basic turbo set ups most people use a stock motor will handle it with ease. That is the beauty of a SR20.
2014-05-28 04:11:32
#5
From my experience, upgrading the bearings and ve head gasket is a good plan. I eventually had to upgrade those two items myself.
2014-05-30 11:40:06
#6
Originally Posted by SE-Rican
A stock motor will take that 303 whp and smile. What ECU are you using with the S-AFC? Is it a turbo ECU?

With the basic turbo set ups most people use a stock motor will handle it with ease. That is the beauty of a SR20.


I´m using a GTI-R chipped ECU together with SAFC2, GTIR MAF and 440cc(sti) injectors.

My AFR´s are fine trough out all the rpm. But my MAF and injectors are pretty much at their peak. The problem is the knock at hot days when the engine gets pushed hard.

Without using water /meth inj, am i not pretty much on the edge at 10psi for a 10:1 motor on pump 98ron?

But it´s not about power really, i need bigger injectors, MAF(already have) and proper ECU, but thats for later, since i´m going to take the motor out to clean/inspect and put the diff and 70A in, i wanna take the chance to put a fresh and if possible better block.

I can get a 4cw really cheap, almost given, but from what i´ve been reading not really worth it, but i would like to do a stronger block on OEM parts since is what i can get my hands on were i live.

So: gtir pump, 8cw crank, flywheel, vet gasket, 200sx pistons and fresh everything?
2014-05-31 17:46:49
#7
I would just advise that if you are getting a different crank spend the time and money to really inspect the journals make sure they are within spec. As well as the block mains and rod journals. Then select the correct sized bearings. If money permits, take it to a machine shop and get it balanced too.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
2014-06-01 03:12:10
#8
Originally Posted by P10
I would just advise that if you are getting a different crank spend the time and money to really inspect the journals make sure they are within spec. As well as the block mains and rod journals. Then select the correct sized bearings. If money permits, take it to a machine shop and get it balanced too.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


Thank you... it was my first intentions, but decided not to do it, no real gain apparently... from what if been reading. (Wonder why nissan did it in the first place!)

I´m going with S14 rods+pistons, vet head gasket, gtir oil pump and don´t know if i´m going the lightweight/balancing route... i´m not that confident on a lightweight fly and pulley without balancing, by not doing it right now i will save some money towards the managment, i can allways do it later.

Don´t know if i should go with ARP or anything else since i´m hands on the block?
Last edited by groundscraper on 2014-06-01 at 03-42-47.
2014-06-02 23:16:55
#9
Seems i´ll be building and putting the block sooner then i tought... is not good when your sr20 sounds like a ej20, is it? ahahhahahha

Well guess the sr20 can only take soo much... detonation is not a good thing, i pretty much negleted the warning signs. I pushed too far in a really hot day.

The car runs, a even pulls good, but there´s some oil in the catch tank, and cyl number 3 as 6(bar) compression, half of the other cylinders. Guess it´s time...

2014-06-07 16:51:30
#10
Aftermath:



+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top