Thread: What to do for extra power?

EMS BIOTCHES!!! AEM POWER!

Brent

But $2000??? Then tuning?

Try to find a good used AEM, made for any other car on eBay. The stand-alone ECU's mostly work the same, from what I've read. They just mount the board with different connectors. Be sure not to get burned buying the 4 spark fuel controller, which sells for $400.00 new. It's not the same as the stand-alone and looks similar. Basically, the fuel injection unit is included in the stand-alone, so ask a bunch of the right questions before you buy anything.

The Honda boys are selling off AEM's like hot-cakes, sometimes at much less than half price.
Solder a cross-over connector between your harness and the Honda AEM,(or buy one from one of the guys who make them here on the forum), and your working with an AEM, on the cheap.

Probably feels great to own a Honda builder's ECU for dirt-cheap and convert it to a Nissan control unit; where it properly belongs

I am getting mine used for a 1000.00

oops...

where you from man?? im in the same gay ass elevation,lol

I am in Utah. Just north of SLC. The problem is that the AEM will not keep the car OBD2 legal. This is important here. The Calum is the best way to go for the money. You can do almost everything to it you can with the EMS. There are some fancy features on the AEM units, but I think I may just go Calum and call it a day. There is nobody around here with the calum stuff, so maybe I will just invest in the calum and start some local tuning.

JWT is good and all for getting the car running. But the programs they offer for VETs (or just VEs in general) are not very good for power. I should be making 30whp more than what I am now. I am still happy with the power, but it just goes to show there is much more potential out there.

Isn't the JWT unit supposed to power the solenoids like in a regular VE car, thus causing lower numbers cause it runs off of oil pressure instead of a set switching point? That would cause less power.

No, the JWT computer does not control the VVL switchover points. Those are all switched over with a piggyback device. MSS, or msd switch. The VVL will kick at whichever rpm you desire as long as you have something to switch them, and you have enough oil pressure to lock the rockers. I am running a thicker oil right now so they can engage pretty much whenever I want. If you are running 5w30 then the VVL will prob only want to come on at 1500-2000rpm. Engaging it lower than 5k is a waste anyway though.

I may look at the calum as a replacement. But it will be a lil bit. The car stops like it is pulling a Sherman, and the suspension feels almost as bad as a Caprice.

Here is some more info. Base timing is set at about 18* or so. The afr is 10.7 at redline, but about 11.5-12.5:1 throughout the rev range. Peak timing at 7500 is 21* so with a couple degrees in there it looks like about 23-24* btdc at max rpm. If you look at about .75* retard for every 1psi of boost, then that puts me at about 36* timing for a NA map. That seems low.

Anyone have tuning experience that can give me an idea of the timing maps? Or maybe I can use the stock DET timing map as a reference. The timing looks a bit on the low side?