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Thread: What to do for extra power?

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Posts: 31-40 of 53
2008-06-24 07:40:35
#31
Originally Posted by Moto
Try to find a good used AEM, made for any other car on eBay. The stand-alone ECU's mostly work the same, from what I've read. They just mount the board with different connectors. Be sure not to get burned buying the 4 spark fuel controller, which sells for $400.00 new. It's not the same as the stand-alone and looks similar. Basically, the fuel injection unit is included in the stand-alone, so ask a bunch of the right questions before you buy anything.

The Honda boys are selling off AEM's like hot-cakes, sometimes at much less than half price.
Solder a cross-over connector between your harness and the Honda AEM,(or buy one from one of the guys who make them here on the forum), and your working with an AEM, on the cheap.

Probably feels great to own a Honda builder's ECU for dirt-cheap and convert it to a Nissan control unit; where it properly belongs


^^^^ Who the hell makes that on this forum. You need to put me on bro!!!!!!!
2008-07-25 19:39:37
#32
do you have e85? down here a well known work shop heavily tuned a drift car with a small responcive turbo to 190rwkw's, then did the fuel switch to e85 tuned it again AND 210RWKW'S!

so if you have e85 i would defiantly buy a calum, then get a good tunner to tune for e85.

e85 is 105 octane and the amount of advance you can run due to it 'light' characteristics is just crazy. also going calum and tuning in realtime will not only give you more power up top, but the impressive gains will be throughtout the rev range. with e85 and a calum you will have faster spool, more power and it will be more responsive

note: this fuel will use a lot more though around 20%-30% but its around 20%-30% cheaper so pretty much evens out. anyway as long as you have some decent injectors to suit you should be fine
2008-07-26 00:25:53
#33
An O2 induction manifold will make a HUGE difference.
2008-07-26 01:21:42
#34
Can't believe I missed this thread. If you want my input Coheed I'd be glad to help.

Originally Posted by Coheed
Here is some more info. Base timing is set at about 18* or so. The afr is 10.7 at redline, but about 11.5-12.5:1 throughout the rev range.
I tend to float around the 11.8:1 to 12.2:1 area when recommending fueling. 93 octane and 1 bar or less you can sit at 12.2:1 all day long and be fine. 91 octane and pushing towards 2 bar of boost and you're going to be looking at 11.8:1 as your goal for A/F ratio. This is during full boost throughout the entire rev range. No more, no less (as steady as you can get it).

Originally Posted by Coheed
Peak timing at 7500 is 21* so with a couple degrees in there it looks like about 23-24* btdc at max rpm.
What are you saying is max rpm? 7,700? I'd just assume 21° holds from 7,500 to 7,700. Maybe you might be going to 22° at most.

Originally Posted by Coheed
If you look at about .75* retard for every 1psi of boost, then that puts me at about 36* timing for a NA map. That seems low.
Have you seen my map? I've got 32.50° there. I assume you're running 17 psi by your math. You're also cammed, being a VE and all so I'd put your best N/A timing lower than mine at maybe 30° at 7,500. You've got 9.0:1 compression so normally you'd take out more than 0.75° per psi, but you have a large turbo so 0.75° per psi sounds okay. That makes your ideal timing (by this enthalpy math) 17.25° at 7,500 rpm.

Originally Posted by Coheed
Anyone have tuning experience that can give me an idea of the timing maps?
Sure. What kind of idea would you like?

Originally Posted by Coheed
Or maybe I can use the stock DET timing map as a reference.
This is an okay idea. You just have to realize you'll want less advance when you're "on cam" because you'll have more air/fuel which will burn faster. I can try to get danmartin's map for you, but that might take some time.

Originally Posted by Coheed
The timing looks a bit on the low side?
I'm thinking high side but I'd rather look at danmartin's maps (I don't have his memorized like I do mine) before making a final recommendation.
2008-07-26 06:12:25
#35
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Can't believe I missed this thread. If you want my input Coheed I'd be glad to help.

I tend to float around the 11.8:1 to 12.2:1 area when recommending fueling. 93 octane and 1 bar or less you can sit at 12.2:1 all day long and be fine. 91 octane and pushing towards 2 bar of boost and you're going to be looking at 11.8:1 as your goal for A/F ratio. This is during full boost throughout the entire rev range. No more, no less (as steady as you can get it).

What are you saying is max rpm? 7,700? I'd just assume 21° holds from 7,500 to 7,700. Maybe you might be going to 22° at most.

Have you seen my map? I've got 32.50° there. I assume you're running 17 psi by your math. You're also cammed, being a VE and all so I'd put your best N/A timing lower than mine at maybe 30° at 7,500. You've got 9.0:1 compression so normally you'd take out more than 0.75° per psi, but you have a large turbo so 0.75° per psi sounds okay. That makes your ideal timing (by this enthalpy math) 17.25° at 7,500 rpm.

Sure. What kind of idea would you like?

This is an okay idea. You just have to realize you'll want less advance when you're "on cam" because you'll have more air/fuel which will burn faster. I can try to get danmartin's map for you, but that might take some time.

I'm thinking high side but I'd rather look at danmartin's maps (I don't have his memorized like I do mine) before making a final recommendation.


Wow ya this one has been a lil bit. But yes, the datascan shows that on 16psi at 7500rpm I was at 21* of timing. Now I did some more runs at 20psi and found that the computer still has timing set at 20-21* at the same rpm.

Also I have custom pistons. So I am at 8.5:1. These have a BIG dish. The fuel map looks good, but the timing seems like it was tuned weird. It doesn't matter how much boost I run, I get the same amount of timing at 7500rpm.

Something tells me that is not normal. I have played with the idea of going with a tubular manifold, but I really want to make this one work. Sure it doesn't flow as well, but haven't other guys made good power on these log designs?

I have since backed off the timing from 18* and 20psi, to 15* base and 18psi. The car still pulls like crazy, but I am missing the timing. Timing seems to make all the difference. But I don't know if I am detonating or not, so I don't wanna push it. I don't HEAR any detonation at all, but ppl on the forums got me scared to push it.

How does a stock evo push 23psi stock on pump??? I have a low compression ratio, and a big intercooler. If I can't push 20psi safely then maybe I should invest in alky injection.
2008-07-26 17:24:03
#36
Originally Posted by Coheed
I have custom pistons. So I am at 8.5:1.
Oh, I didn't catch that. Sorry.

Originally Posted by Coheed
It doesn't matter how much boost I run, I get the same amount of timing at 7500rpm.

That could easily be the computer pulling timing because of knock. No matter what you set the timing at, it's knocking, then pulling timing until it stops leaving you at 21° timing every time no matter what you do with base timing because that's where it is avoiding detonation. Still not as safe as 18° which would be my recommendation.

Originally Posted by Coheed
Something tells me that is not normal.
It could be that JWT just put 21° at 15 psi all the way up to 30 psi... Who knows...

Originally Posted by Coheed
I have played with the idea of going with a tubular manifold, (snip) but haven't other guys made good power on these log designs?
I haven't seen pics of your log manifold to compare but I know people have made above 500 WHP with log type manifolds.

Originally Posted by Coheed
I have since backed off the timing from 18* and 20psi, to 15* base and 18psi. The car still pulls like crazy, but I am missing the timing. Timing seems to make all the difference. But I don't know if I am detonating or not, so I don't wanna push it. I don't HEAR any detonation at all, but ppl on the forums got me scared to push it.

The thing is, you don't have the full story regarding timing because you have that JWT ECU. From the looks of it I'd say 15° is the better choice unless it makes partial throttle and idle situations worse than stock.

Originally Posted by Coheed
How does a stock evo push 23psi stock on pump??? I have a low compression ratio, and a big intercooler. If I can't push 20psi safely then maybe I should invest in alky injection.
An evo combustion chamber could easily have better squelch characteristics, better head cooling, proper timing, etc. which would make all the difference. Not to mention their turbos are a bit smaller than yours. 20 psi on your GT30 is a lot more air than 23 psi on their turbo. 20 psi from a GT30 on a VE motor is easily above 400 WHP. That might be beyond the limits of 91 octane. It's certainly beyond the limits of that JWT ECU me thinks.
2008-07-26 19:31:14
#37
Yes, the jwt ecu is weird. I talked to calum and he said that JWT takes the "fuzzy logic" out of the knock sensor on their ecu. I fixed the problem today, and the car feels the exact same. no better, no worse than when the knock sensor is unplugged. I cleared the code, took it out, then unplugged the sensor and got the same results.

the bottom end power really misses the timing advance. If I don't run any boost at all, and run NA, the car barely moves. I won't rev over 3k rpm at WOT. The timing map seems to be based on load instead of air flow or tps or something.
2008-07-27 17:32:23
#38
also with the evo's im sure their ability to run higher ammounts of boost is probably due to a conservative tune on their factory ecu...alot of factory turbo engines do that, they are basicly detuned, thats why simple flashes of the ec can yeild greater numbers easily.

also if you were wanting to run over 20psi, and you go to full time race gas,i would definity get the car completel retuned for that 20psi with the higher octane, that wya you stand to see the full potential of spending 12 a gallon lol...naw but that way you will see 100% gain.
2008-07-28 18:55:58
#39
Originally Posted by BenFenner
It's certainly beyond the limits of that JWT ECU "me thinks".


oh man ignore that post because its gibbersish!!!!!
2008-07-28 19:23:23
#40
Originally Posted by boostin50
oh man ignore that post because its gibbersish!!!!!


Ignore this post too, because he's out of line! Unless he knows every single detail pertaining to your specific ECU, he's talking gibberish, as well.
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