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Thread: N1 or stock VE cams for my 3071r setup

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Posts: 21-30 of 36
2014-02-14 06:06:02
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
you have a chance to test something that i WISH i could test man

OP, this is a good point. Of course its your car and your $ so you do what you wish, but perhaps keeping the community in mind would be good too.
2014-02-14 07:27:08
I see what's going on here lol...everyone wants to see the results with the N1's. That's understandable though. I'd just feel much more comfortable with the s&r's in there because of the amount of power that high in the rpm band on an internally stock engine.

I'm gonna see where I'm at financially after I acquire the rest of what I need and go from there at this point. Still need the wastegate (JGS 50mm), injectors (probably nismo 740cc), aem ems/tuning, a fmic that will fit the Lucino 4 fog and piping. It adds up quick.
2014-02-14 23:56:16
The n1's are safer than stock cams on a sr20ve with the stock s/r. you need to upgrade the s/r kit no matter what cams you have. Mechanical over rev is a issue with turbo cars. You may find the n1's work buy using the adjustable cam gears. look at coheeds threads you can see multiple cam setups with his gt30r and the 6262. I would think that the n1's if they worked would have more peak power vs the 20v's. should make another 10whp up top. The 20v's will have been low end and mid range power. Again its your money. 20v's used usually go for why n1's sell for used.
2014-03-04 17:21:37
I'd stick with stock cams. Gt3071r starts to fall off at around 7500 anyways. If someone does know of some 20v cams lmk. I need them for my pte6262 build.
2014-03-06 01:15:17
I've tested all the cams in the super sentra. The 20V made the most power, especially at high rpm with the 6262 turbo. The N1 were my favorite cams to run because of how the engine felt/sounded. The changeover was very strong, and on 10psi the car was fast enough on the street that I didn't want any more power.

The 3071r is a good turbo but the .82 housing should be used with a VVL imho. Granted I'm at high elevation so I have to deal with higher pressure ratios and more backpressure than you guys at lower elevations. But the .82 will like the larger cams as well. The GT3071r is a better matched turbo than the GT3076r I used previously.

I would go to the SR16 cams for the price, N1 if you really want the engine to scream, and 20v if you are looking for that peak dyno number. The 20V cams felt good, but the cam changeover was weak in comparison to the SR16. Sometimes its better to have an engine sound better, and to have VVL hit harder than it is to make 10whp at the very last 100rpm of the powerband.
2014-03-06 01:21:03
Originally Posted by Coheed
Cam comparison 20V vs N1 "drop-in" results.
The Test: Drop in comparison between N1 and 20V cams.
The Dyno: Dynojet 248C upgraded to 2000whp capability.
Date: ‎4/‎25/‎2012
The Car: Coheed's Super Sentra

The Setup: 8.5:1 compression, tubular long runner manifold, Supertech springs and retainers, JWT computer, Stock head/intake manifold, Precision 6262 bb. And supporting mods.

Special Thanks to Vadim for making this test possible. Without his trust and temporary donation of N1 cams this test would not have been possible. big thanks to Fast-Times dyno services. JC allowed me to swap cams on the dyno to get the most accurate back-to-back results.

Runs were done 20V low, 20V high. Then N1 low, N1 high, then N1 low again. Due to some boost irregularity and some dyno mishaps, the N1 low had mixed results.

Dyno comparisons were done starting at 2000 rpm for low boost. Boost controller was set to its lowest settings. The boost did fluctuate slightly between runs, it was something out of my control. But runs were around 1-2psi of each other.
Here is the low boost runs: Blue is 20V, red is N1.

Results: The 20V cams performed amazingly well on low-boost of 11psi. 365whp compared to the N1 at 342whp. This is a difference of 23whp. For some reason, the N1 cams consistently under-performed to the 20V cams. Though boost was slightly lower by ~1psi, and there was some issues on the dyno, the 20V without a doubt made more power on low boost.
What couldn't be forseen however, is the bottom end power delivery. The N1 in every run produced more power on the bottom end, in various areas. I would like to do more testing with the N1 on low boost to see if I can get it to make what the 20V made. The issues on the dyno meant the N1 low boost had to happen after high boost pulls to get an accurate reading. However, this may have cause some slight heat soaking. More testing will be required on low-boost runs. I encourage others to post their results.

High boost runs are when things get really entertaining: Blue is 20V, red is N1.

The N1 cams outperformed the 20V here, generating 516whp on only 19psi boost on N1 and 491whp on 20V. A difference of 25whp. The N1 also didn't lose any bottom end to the 20V cams. There was a dip in power delivery on the N1 coming on boost. The power onslaught was so severe, boost went to 24psi momentarily before dropping back to 19psi. This caused a bit of spark blow-out. This was remedied by closing the gap and following up with another pull and it made 505whp. There was some heat-soaking going on for sure, but pull after pull the N1 made over 500whp on 19psi.

I encourage anyone else pursuing this kind of cam swap to do a comparison as well. The N1 cams don't seem to have any negative effects, if you can deal with less power on low boost. The N1 can switch ealier and start making power faster. The cams are extremely quiet on low, but scream like a banshee on high. They get 3x louder, they are flat out abnoxious.

Feel free to discuss. There are variables at play here, but it is what it is.

So, it looks like the 20V cams dominated the N1 on low boost with this setup, but the N1 performed better on higher boost levels. Look how hard the N1 cams come on boost! Insanity.
2014-03-07 01:48:42
If you see some 20v cams for sale, gobble them up! they are no longer available from nissan, i think i brought the last few sets
2014-03-07 14:28:00
What I find interesting about Coheeds results is they are done on a low 8.5:1 compression. So the N1's shine with a bit of boost and cyl pressure pumped through them. I am guessing this is due to the extra overlap of the n1's 57deg vs 78deg. I would guess that with 10:1 comp or higher the n1's would shine on lower boost as well.

To the OP:

take up blackser's offer on the swap plus cash your way for s16ve non n1's. They are the best turbo cam for you turbo. The low lobes are the best suited for under 4k power, also best suited for turbo with its ex bias. Also even NA the sr16ve cams make the best midrange. Your turbo is a mid range turbo. Plus you don't needs springs.

So my advice is swap N1's for non N1 s16ve's. Have the best cam suited to your turbo. Make more power in the areas that you wants. Rev to 8k with no springs. Then win at turbo ve's.

Really don't over think it! get the non n1 16ve's and call it a day. Even on naturally aspirated ve's I kinda like the power band of non n1 16ves over n1's. the n1's just make a little more power and go nice with some revs, but the 16ve non n1's kill them in the midrange!

p.s. 20v overlap is 57deg, 16ve 70deg and n1 78deg.

The 16ve cams will suit you stock ve compression perfect also.
2014-03-08 03:09:15
Thanks @ca18 bluebirld! I was completely sold on 20v cams too and my setup is going to be VERY high boost.
2014-03-08 10:47:09
Originally Posted by ca18
Even on naturally aspirated ve's I kinda like the power band of non n1 16ves over n1's. the n1's just make a little more power and go nice with some revs, but the 16ve non n1's kill them in the midrange!


Something must have been wrong with your car, I tried SR16VE cams then N1 cams and the N1's shit all over the SR16 on the bottom, in the middle and up top.
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