Thread: Standard SR20VET Issues. Please help!

Knock sensors sucked on the 2001 and up models. They were unable to tell the difference between knock and normal valve train noise. I had to remove the knock sensor on my 2002 spec v to keep it from pulling timing. I still had the knock sensor connected to the block via a wire but I made it less sensitive. I tested this out on a stock car by advancing the timing via a consult 2 and driving it. After 20 mins of driving the timing had backed down and a knock code was showing that could only be seen by a consult 2. we relocated the knock sensor and advanced the timing again. We drove the car for 20mins then checked the timing which was still advanced and no knock code was there. I also checked the car with a precision accelerometer with vibration meter. Its the knock sensor program that was at fault.

Is it worth me swaping it out for a p11 SR20VE Knock sensor? or are they a different sensor?

no the sensors are the same on most models. Its the actual knock sensor program in the ecu thats the issue. Nissan had a recall on some models and would reflash the ecu to fix the issue. I would check the plugs and see if you have signs of detonation. I would also look into the fuel pump sock and make sure its not dirty. Sounds like your car is going into limp mode. I would get the car hooked up to a consult 2 and verify the malfunction history.

fuel pump sock is new but I haven't replaced filter yet. Will check plugs

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk [url='http://tapatalk.com/m?id=10']now Free[/url]

The vet uses a different plug on the knock sensor to a P11 one.

I know Pten, so we have been discussing this. Ive also done a engine swap on a p12 20v sedan, put a VET engine in, which was pretty straight forward with the VET ecu plugging into the 20v loom, and the only thing needing a change was wiring in the boost sensor.

Ive also had similar issues with the car loosing power, and suspect the knock sensor. Goes pretty nice when its boosting on stock boost tho.

I put in a new a/m fuel filter. Car wouldn't start. Found out why, but can you? Manufactures fault haha. Old filter on right

Got a brand new genuine fuel filter and then i put back the standard SR20VET fuel pump. Problem still there, i even swapped CAS with my 20v, made no difference.

Both problems are still there. Loss of power and what seems like limp mode (but no codes) Goes away when i restart the engine & then the very LOUD pinking at high revs/load.

Would a sticking/clogged up injector cause an issue like this? They are one of the last things i haven't swapped.

Bit of an update.

The detonation noise was water under the coil pack.

MAY have found the fault with the other issue. I took the vacuum line off the factory boost control solenoid and blocked it with a bolt. Drove the car about 120miles yesterday and it didn't fault, fingers crossed this is it (sometimes it takes days for it to fault)

Is it possible for the boost solenoid to cause the turbo NOT to make boost? Always thought boost controllers couldn't make the boost lower than what the actuator is made to do.