Thread: DE+T DTC codes help with connecting IACV and EVAP Solenoid correctly

I have this concern as well, but I could be completely wrong here, but I think when the car is in boost those hoses are not seeing full boost I think. I think most of the air bypasses that opening and is getting sucked through the TB as it's the direction of least resistance to enter the engine. I could be totally wrong as I'm not a mechanical engineer, but it makes sense in my head :/ You'd think those hoses would be popping off at anything over 15psi. Maybe it's because it's a smaller hose.

Ya the bung should be after the MAF so metered air is entering the engine.

Sweet, so I'll re-attach that hose to the intake pipe after the MAF, and take a step at a time from there, and then when @P10 Goodness has an available moment to post what he did with the EVAP solenoid I should be all set hopefully

To clear the P1400, you'll need the EGR purge control solenoid valve. It's a small solenoid with three vacuum lines and one two pin electrical connector. All you need is the electrical connector hooked up and that's what fixed it for me. I picked one up from JGY for $10 and passed CA Smog last month.

u can put a resistor in the egr 2 pin connector and that will act as if the egr valve was hooked up.

if you do a search you should be able to find out what size resistor.
then head to radio shack and buy a pack of resistors that come with the one u need.

The resistor hack is for a p1401, EGR temp

I'll get you that picture tomorrow for sure.

@root that's awkward, then maybe my purge solenoid is actually bad, I have it plugged in but the code it still popping, I'll clean it with some carb clean, and put voltage to it and see if it opens and closes properly. @P10 Goodness I appreciate it, again no rush, I have about 1 year before I need to pass emissions but just wanted to clear my things up sooner rather than later. And @Doug Fab I'll look into the resistor if my purge solenoid is actually bad

yea I was unsure what egr code he is throwing. but the only egr codes of gotten on my cars I was able to get rid of by installing a resistor.

so correction it doesn't go in place of egr valve but the temp sensor for the egr valve

Ahh ok, I don't get the code for the temp sensor, since mine is still bolted into the manifold, I'm just getting the P1400 for the Purge Solenoid Valve thingy lol, but as I mentioned my valve is probably bad so I'll run some tests on it this week and see if it's opening and closing before I come to the conclusion that it's faulty.

So I routed the hose from the inter-cooler pipe after the BOV and MAF, and now the car starts and idles perfect. Just gotta figure out the Solenoid which I haven't had time to remove and bench test yet... Will be updating as progress is made