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Thread: HELP weird idling/dying issue

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Posts: 11-13 of 13
2013-07-28 18:45:00
#11
Ah ok, thanks, will check that out, only concern is, my friend has a Techtom and didnt want to connect same goes for a consult. OBD readers work. I also have a kiwi thing to read sensors and that won't connect as well. I did read something about the 99 p11's consult port is slightly different and there is a post on g20.net to change some pins around. I do have a fuel pressure gauge and it's 4bar with the vac disconnected which what its suppose to be since I'm running 4bar on the JWT ecu. The fuel pressure doesn't change when the car starts to idle funky unless the rpms drop down to 500-600 and the gauge reads lower fuel pressure when that happens. Forgot about the smoke test for vac leaks, I'm going to try to that out the second time I go though my vac lines.
Last edited by sr20fan on 2013-07-28 at 18-48-03.
2013-07-28 20:51:03
#12
Originally Posted by qwkse-r
I'm having a similar problem....mine idles fine til it warms up then cuts off,but if driven it runs fine,though when coming to a stop it fluctuates in rpm then drops below 800rpm and wideband reads 10.8-11.2 afr...nistune is reading a bad maf code.Ive switched out the mafs(n62)and same similar problems...next thing I'm going to do is rewire my pigtail and ground to chassis instead of intake manifold


check to be sure your IACV is functioning, i had a fuse out, it was some electronics fuse that was also related to the door chime, anyway i fixed that very issue just by replacing a fuse! lol..


Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
Originally Posted by BenFenner
The door chime is on the same fuse as the idle control valve. I was just checking to see if it was a blown fuse.


DUDE, you DA MAN!


after almost 4 years of shit idle i found that fuse blown, now the iacv works
i will see in the morning, but it should fire right up with no baby sitting the throttle or tryin to stall when coming to that first stop sign!

i need to put it in idle adjust mode an play with it a tad cause its a little high, and i think my neutral position switch is bad because it idles at like 1400 till i come to a complete stop. but man i'll be so happy if this problems solved.

FYI the fuse was on the left side and it was marked "Electronics (B)" on the fuse box cover. its a 10a.
2013-08-01 07:26:54
#13
figured it out for my situation, it was ground points. I cleaned them up with light sand paper and re-routed some ground wires, especially ones for my gauges. And the ground wire from chassis to the transmission wasn't connected cause I forgot to put that on. Then fired her up, drove around, let her idle a little and idle is perfect 850-900 and wideband reading 15.7 at idle instead of bouncing up and down from 14.5-16.
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