Thread: 300zxTT (z32) N62 MAF options - mine died :-(

Unless you want to throw away your money do not purchase one from ebay, i personaly have bought countless after market ones and none have made it past a few runs
your better off buying a used one

talking from experience ....

Right About now im thinking to just buy a stand alone unfortunately price is killer but for now im working on the new Manifold bought flanges and pipe yesterday

go to speed density and throw out the maf. Or get a maf from greg v.

Edited my original post. The price I listed from GregV was my misunderstanding and incorrect.

convert to map x2

K, I got some voltage readings from the pigtail but nothing from the MAF with ohms selected. I've never used the ohms setting before but a buddy said it sends a current to a source which doesn't have power. These are my pigtail readings, I imagine they're legit?

Volts: 11.98 <---key on engine not running
Pigtail-
E: 11.94
D: 10.9
C: 11.2
B: 18.8

that doesnt make sense? one should be 12v supply, one is 5v out the other 2 are grounds...

Z32 91-96 MAF (Letter Below Can Be Seen On MAF) Please join C and D and now you are back to a 3 wire MAF setup.

A. Nothing goes here
B. 5 volt output read wire
C. Ground
D. Ground
E. 12 volt Positve
F. Nothing Goes here

http://www.sr20-forum.com/howto-s/9138-nissan-maf-wiring-dummies.html

Wiring the MAF is a part of the process I actually didn't do. My buddy who helped do the swap was the mastermind behind it. He took care of that while I attended to other items.

Reference point: car has always run just about flawlessly minus a recently cured idle issue and tuning. MAF always read proper voltage in realtime too up till now with 0.01%.

NOOOOOW going over his work I see one thing that may or may not be kosher. But seems legit. Either way I don't think it'd be messing with power readings like mine is doing.....unless my multi tool is whacked.

I have B and E wired correctly according to Andreas' info....it's my grounds I now question but again, I don't think grounds would mess with power unless crossed (obviously). Where its said to twist C + D together, it's not said where to connect them afterwards. I imagine it's to be assumed to twist and wire them into the harness....that's what I'd have done anyway. Seems my buddy decided to wire C to the chassis and D to the harness white wire. According to Andreas in that link, white is ground.

So yeah, @lynchfourtwenty, my numbers DEFINITELY don't make sense!!!! If not for anything else, especially C where it's wired directly to the chassis. Brand spanking new batteries in the multi-tool too.

my car hated the extra ground to the chassis, would not run for shite... my 2 cents