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Thread: Quirky turbo issues

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Posts: 21-30 of 144
2013-06-24 09:19:01
#21
Originally Posted by sentraman
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
dude thats a shitty way to test something, it sounds faulty tho..

well with attitude like that good luck getting any further help or advice, you wont receive any from me.


Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
why do you not have a wideband? you spent all that cash on shit and forgot one of the key items... no one should have a turbo car and no wideband, atleast when using a tunable ecu an shit..

when u say it smells rich, you COULD have an exact number, and maybe relay this to jwt for yet another tune, OR maybe ditch that shitty jwt ecu for a Nismotronic! and dial it in your self..


Whoa, slow it down there tiger... must've had a bad day. He was testing the Wideband o2 sensor just like AEM says to do


all i saw was some crap about a afc neo when i read it.. but with a wall of text ya cant blame me for skimming a little.. i've never used a aem wideband so wouldn't know about that test, still seems like a shitty way to test if ya ask me..

even after i re-read it, it seemed like he was talking about one of those narrowband gauges, that read only rich/stoich/lean..

if dude woulda been like hey man reread my first post i mentioned a wideband and left it at that, i'd have apologized right away, but instead he got mouthy.

any how no bigs, i unsubscribed from the thread, only posting again to reply to you lol
Last edited by lynchfourtwenty on 2013-06-24 at 09-21-58.
2013-06-24 11:29:20
#22
It's true, I could of been maybe a little more descriptive. I just felt the aggressive tone, so I responded and provided the information you sought with a photograph. I was a little over the top myself in response. Could have been more patient.
2013-06-24 12:27:19
#23
it really could be a massive leak in the BOV under vac
2013-06-27 13:25:40
#24
I will be taking a look tonight. And feel if there is leaks. I will take a video and get back to you guys tonight or tomorrow.
2013-06-28 04:55:26
#25
Okay, here is a short clip of what is going on. The runs just reads lean unless I'm throttling like crazy, my pyro looks like is hot, it's on the header. And vacuum is negative 14.

I re-routed the intake vacuum to atmosphere currently to check I the turbo would stop blowing oil (which is stopped) I plan on getting a good baffled catch can and routing both to the intake. Maybe have the T off the valve cover and the hose off the throttle body go into the catch can and reduce to a single. Any thoughts on good cans?

There is no leak from the blow off valve. It doesn't move at all them throttling at idle which I believe is normal no serious load on the motor.

Is that compressor stall? Doesn't sound as violant as surge.

The check engine light turns on at low revs but goes away at high revs and comes back on at low idle, the car will not idle without stalling.

2013-06-28 04:56:30
#26
Sorry about the poor video equality
2013-06-28 05:18:45
#27
What code comes up?
2013-06-28 11:37:05
#28
A) It sounds very much like a MAF. How did you go about checking it? Did you do it per FSM by checking voltage?? Typically several signs present themselves when the MAF has somehow been removed from the Loop

1) Not able to rev above 3,000 rpms
2) Inability to idle (immediate lean condition)
3) Immediate (off the charts) lean condition both when you get off the throttle and during idle (which, since as far as the ecu is concerned, no MAF signal = no air = no fuel compensation)

Grab the FSM (and make sure it's the correct MAF you are referencing as per guide as, although similar, different MAFs have different calibration test parameters) and the MAF guide through JWT and go over BOTH the MAF wiring and MAF sensor itself to confirm.

B) Compressor stalling, not a big deal if no load is on the engine. But if you have a BOV, your BOV may not be operating correctly. Easy way to check (since you are open atmosphere) is to simply rev the engine quickly and place your hand over the BOV to see if it vents. It looks like a Greddy, so spring pressure should be adjustable.

C) 14 in.Hg sounds a little high (or low depending on how you look at it) side for idle. Stock cammed cars should be seeing 20+in.Hg at idle. S4s (and BC stage 2s) between 20 and 17in.Hg. Sounds like a vacuum leak (which could be your BOV or how you have your vacuum routing)

Goodluck!
Last edited by Boostlee on 2013-06-28 at 12-37-15.
2013-06-28 11:51:29
#29
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
dude thats a shitty way to test something, it sounds faulty tho..



As mentioned before, incorrect,. Almost all current day "high" quality widebands instruct you that this is a good way to test and check calibration of a wideband. If you did not "initially" check for calibration of your wideband in this manner, it could very well be off (I personally checked calibration curves of my NIB LM1 and MTX-L in this manner, before recalibrating in car to make sure the wideband was reading correctly)
2013-06-28 14:49:26
#30
Originally Posted by Boostlee
A) It sounds very much like a MAF. How did you go about checking it? Did you do it per FSM by checking voltage?? Typically several signs present themselves when the MAF has somehow been removed from the Loop

I pinned the maf at the maf itself and at the ecu with instructions of Matt at JWT. It was .4 volts at accessories. I followed the how wire diagram. On the forum. The maf did increase in voltage as I blew into the maf itself. I will be doing this again tonight.

1) Not able to rev above 3,000 rpms
2) Inability to idle (immediate lean condition)
3) Immediate (off the charts) lean condition both when you get off the throttle and during idle (which, since as far as the ecu is concerned, no MAF signal = no air = no fuel compensation)
The car does not hesitate at this time current it use to be bad not it has gone away since I fixed the vacuum situation.
Grab the FSM (and make sure it's the correct MAF you are referencing as per guide as, although similar, different MAFs have different calibration test parameters) and the MAF guide through JWT and go over BOTH the MAF wiring and MAF sensor itself to confirm.

I pinned it out, maybe get another maf for giggles?

B) Compressor stalling, not a big deal if no load is on the engine. But if you have a BOV, your BOV may not be operating correctly. Easy way to check (since you are open atmosphere) is to simply rev the engine quickly and place your hand over the BOV to see if it vents. It looks like a Greddy, so spring pressure should be adjustable.
I did do this I adjusted it all the way out. With no load on the motor I don't make boost, it does not release not does it leak at idle. I have not driven the car yet.
C) 14 in.Hg sounds a little high (or low depending on how you look at it) side for idle. Stock cammed cars should be seeing 20+in.Hg at idle. S4s (and BC stage 2s) between 20 and 17in.Hg. Sounds like a vacuum leak (which could be your BOV or how you have your vacuum routing)
I have my valve cover t and throttle body vented to atmosphere. I'm about 60% positive it idled with these hooked up to intake. I need a catch can with baffles and to route it after the maf on intake

Goodluck!


Thanks for your input!

If anyone has any ideas let me know.

I'm pretty sure my TPS is spot on I replaced it last year.

And the o2 is new.

Would unplugging the o2 help you think? Maybe it's shooting a code because the o2 see's it lean. If I were to unplug the o2 at idle maybe this would remove the check engine light ( FOR DIANOSIS ONLY) not as a permanent fix.

I still have to have a buddy come over with his snap on scan tools run the code this weekend
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