Thread: Help me get my car to run right thread.

Im about to go try and bleed my coolant system and pressure test it. Any suggestions on how to check that stuff Ben?

If you have spare stuff, that will help a lot. A spare ECU, injectors, etc. would be real nice. Otherwise I guess you have to get out the multimeter and check a few things.

Assuming the ECU is good, and is setup for your MAF and injectors (which is a big assumption) then the things you need to check in order of importance are:
1) CAS - Your engine starts and I assume tach signal is good so this is probably fine.
2) MAF
3) Injectors
4) Ignition components
5) Fuel pump
6) FPR
7) Fuel filter and lines

Look up how to test each in the FSM.

It could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter, or fuel pump sock...

The fuel filter looks pretty ghetto maybe I should just replace it. Looks like the stock KA one on there. Chassis has 200k who knows how man miles are on it.

Ok, so I got the pressure tester on the car. Pumped it up to 18 psi. Came back about 25 minutes later and it was at 15 psi. I couldn't see any leaks anywhere.

Started the car, pressure slowly climbed up to 19 psi then stopped and started going back down. At this point my lower radiator hose started leaking.

Is a bad head gasket, or improperly bled system causing it to rise that high, or is that normal. I've never had a leak from that hose before today.

Replacing the fuel filter would definitely not hurt. Personally, I use an OE Nissan Z32 Filter (16400-Q0805) on all my cars but one.

Having the MAF so close to the Turbo Inlet can cause weird problems also.

Recirculating the Re-Circulation valve is a step in the right direction, thou ideally you would want it further from the Mass Air Flow sensor.

Are there any signs of oil leakage from the Crank Angle Sensor?

The wiring by the ECU looks like an Italian chef was working on it - Is everything good there?

Check MAF voltage.

Do you know someone that was a fuel pressure tester?



What plugs are they? NGK originals from factory or have they been replaced? (The Original plugs usually have blue rings around the white part if I remember correctly). What temperature plug?

Ngk6bre or something like that. I dont see any oil leaks. Looks like i need to get a voltage tester. And yea the ECU wiring is electrical taped up in a few spots I'm afraid to look at it. Electrical wiring is my least strong point of working on vehicles. I'm not even really sure how to setup up a voltmeter or use it. My friend has a nice 250 dollar one I can borrow though.

Changed my fuel filter. Took the car for a drive and now my gas pedal feels weird. Like its not engaging until almost at the end of the travel. Car drove decent for a while, then the bogging came back. Realized I forgot to put my tank cap back on when I got home. Not sure what to make of that. Seems like I'm starting to get some black soot on the back bumper. Thinking I'm running rich possibly.

Did you check the tps voltage yet? I can't tell you how many times some one has brought me a car that was running bad and the issue was the tps was adjusted wrong.

I'm not sure how to check it anyone got a guide for me?

use a multimeter on the three pin harness that connects the tps. you need the signal wire and the ground. with the key on and throttle closed insert the multimeter probe leads into the connector. it should read between .45-.55 volts dc. if it does not not loosen the two screws that hold the sensor in place and move the sensor until the meter reads .48 volts. tighten screws and your done.