Thread: Help me get my car to run right thread.

Bought 240 a while back. Been fighting it to run decent, I've only driven it a few times, here is whats up. (I've been reading what I can search on zilvia but I like you guys better.)

-The car is a 93 Hatch with a Redtop.
-Ecu is for a Redtop.
-mafs is for a Sr.
-Stock injectors, stock fpr.
-3inch exhaust/dp.
-Meagen racing manifold.
-Fmic with DSM BOV.
-Walbarro fuel pump.
-Koyo alum. rad. w/one electric fan always on.

For vacuum lines I have
-Small nipple above TB>t for boost gauge>FPR.
-Large nipple above TB> BOV only.
-Nipple under TB capped off.
-Vacuum fitting on IC pipe>Wastegate Actuator.
-T on valvecover goes into a catch can> catch can goes to intake, other side goes T into block.
-New check valve by master cylinder.

The car starts and idles with no problems. In neutral it revs up just fine.
Car is making 17 vac at idle. Looked like the car made 8-9 psi under boost, which is kinda weird since I only have a stock actuator.

When cold it runs good, as soon as it warms up and you give the car more than 5% throttle it bogs down and doesn't want to go anywhere.
When you get up to 4-5K rpm it starts to go decently hard now that I re-did the vacuum system.

Haven't checked my timing yet, could possibly be something. The adjustment on the cam sensor, or whatever it is, looks to be near all the way one way on the right looking straight at it.

The car seems to have a battery drain issue as well, as well as the aftermarket stereo doesn't work. I think those two may be related, but unrelated to the cars running problems.

Let me know what you guys think I should do/check next on the car.

Things I have tried so far.
- Replaced coolant temp sensor.
- Put a used T25 with minimal shaft play on the car.
- Checked spark plugs and gapped them at .30 (They are NGKBR6KE's, I know they are a step cold but I don't think its an issue.)
- Re-did my vacuum to the setup above.
- Recirculated my BOV.
- Installed an air filter and clocked my maf so the plug is at the top.
- Pressure tested the coolant system, noticed a 3psi drop after 45 minutes, also noticed whitish gray smoke in exhaust only on start up - possible head gasket issue.
- Installed a 300zx fuel filter.
- Fixed a mostly broken TPS wire and set my TPS to .49 closed and 4.18 fully open.
- Checked maf voltage its at .80 key on and 1.56 at idle (I think this is out of spec.)
- Getting 4.87 volts to the coolant temp sensor.
- Compression test cold, 150, 142, 152, 154.
- Wired in a new plug for the mafs, and cleaned the sensor.
- Cleaned PVC on vc.
- Swapped FPR and injectors.
- Warm compression test, 154, 150, 152, 154.
- Got a used sohc maf and pigtail and tried that.
- Looked at fuel pump/filter. Filter looked good, no debris in the tank.

Would need these #'s or a pic of them to verify.

Also, A pic of the engine bay helps.



Have you pressure tested the system or performed a block test?

How does the oil look?

How does the coolant look?

Is the BOV recirculated or open to atmosphere?

Where is the MAF located?

Thus pictures always help...

I'll take some pictures but BOV is open, forgot to mention I did a compression test, lowest was 142. Motor was cold though, not sure if thats a factor. coolant looks fine, haven't drained the oil yet. Mafs is sitting up by the fuse box on the driver side, ill take a pic.

I noticed that theres a lot of coolant in my overflow tank now, there was none before, i just put it on. I'm wondering if the gurgling could be a bad headgasket? How do I pressure test the coolant system?

Added pictures. I see one of my lines to the turbo coolant feed lines is slightly pinched but not sure if its bad enough to cause boiling coolant.

Jwt has all the Nissan Ecu codes so you can find out what you have. Google the part number on the maf, you will find it this way. Go to advance and rent a coolant pressure tester. Sounds like the previous owner did not know what they were doing.

The internet says mafs and ecu are for an s13 Silvia .

i also confirm thats a redtop det ecu and maf.

Sweet. Now just get the coolant pressure tester and verify I the head gasket is blown or not.

The coolant overflow tank fills as the coolant warms and expands. When the coolant cools and compresses the coolant is drawn back into the system. When cold, there should be around 1/4 coolant in the overflow tank. The gurgling you here is probably the coolant entering the overflow tank as it heats. Or possibly air in the system getting pushed out via the coolant tank. It should go away once you get all of the air out of the system and make sure the coolant level in the tank is correct.

I don't know if this would help, but shouldn't the MAF be rotated so the electrical box on the thing points straight up? I know people have issues when the MAF is not rotated correctly.

Recirc that BOV.