Thread: S13 SR22 build advice - SR noob

Hey guys,

I've picked up an '89 S13 hatch as I've always dreamed of building a 240sx since I was about 14. I bought a supposed BC 2.2 stroker SR, but it has a rod knock so I'm rebuilding it. I'm looking for some advice on RPM limits and cam choices:

Here is what I have so far:

-Powerlab GTX3076R TS turbo kit
-Dual MVS wastegates and dump tubes
-S13 SR
-BC 2.2 stroker crank, 9.5:1 87mm bore IIRC (will find out if I have to bore it soon, pulling the block this weekend to send to the machinist to get going)
-3" straight pipe
-BC springs/retainers
-Greddy knock off intake mani
-Some random fuel rail that was on the car and 720 or 740 cc injectors.
-SARD FPR
-Power FC
-some crappy front mount and piping, I'll be upgrading to a larger core and custom piping, and tial Q bov
-don't know what fuel pump is in it yet -> most likely going walbro 400 or aero 340. Not sure yet.
-BC 272 cams -> might well and go solid lifter and Tomei 270s?

I'm building the car for a wild DD. Would the 270 cam be a good choice? I'm thinking 280s will shift the powerband a little further right than I want since I do want to retain some response. (but the 9.5:1 and TS should help with that plenty)

What needs to be done to an SR bottom end to handle 9000rpm? I found a thread via google about a 9000 RPM DET head build, which would basically be what I have if I just get Tomei solid pivots and Tomei solid cams.

Do these engines eat bearings like crazy at 9000 rpm? Is 8000 or 8500 rpm safe on a regular basis assuming I have solid lifters, upgraded springs/retainers, and a balanced bottom end? What else do I need? ATI damper or anything weird for harmonics?

How often do you have to re-shim the Tomei kits? Does anyone have any significant mileage on a Tomei solid lifter setup? I'd really appreciate some insight there. I don't mind reshimming them as it doesn't seem like a big deal to pop that stuff off on an SR, but some reassurance on not having to do it every other week would be nice. I'm used to hydraulic lifter BMWs that don't have to be messed with so I'm a noob there.

Lastly, I've read a lot of people don't like Cometic HGs and prefer Cosworth. Is that the consensus here too?

How about head studs for 550-600 whp? Standard off-the-shelf ARP are okay or do I need to drill the block and go to a larger size?

How much HP do ID1000s generally support on these engines?

Help an SR noob out so I can go have some fun!

Thanks,

Mike

(Also, if anyone has info on a Z32 trans conv., I know I'll need if I ever crank the boost beyond 400-450 ish on pump gas.)

1/2 inch head studs would be awesome and a great piece of mind. As for the stroker set up, are you keeping. the stock block or are you going to sleeve it? as for cams, look into jwt

I know mazworx runs 1/2" in their 1000hp build, but realistically this engine will spend 99% of its time on pump 93 and probably 450/400 area. Race gas occasionally just for giggles. Are standard ARP fine at those 400-500wtq levels?

Also the engine was already built using stock block, not sleeved. I don't intend to sleeve it if I need to overbore due to damage, just .020 or whatever it needs over and then new pistons. I'll find out more of the condition of the bottom end this Saturday when I start pulling it apart more.

Why JWT for cams? Do they make a solid lifter 4000-8000 rpm range cam? IIRC using a solid lifter cam provides much more total valve opening per event than a hydraulic cam, meaning more power at the same duration and lift due to a much steeper ramp angle, so I was just going to go tomei 270 since I'm assuming the 280s are designed for 9000 rpm drag setups with huge turbos.

More thoughts? Thanks!

Mike
(lll post pictures when I get to a computer of the car and my 650whp M3 drift car)

cosworth head gasket if you intend of keeping the stroke the same. I would use mazworx headstuds as they are designed properly for the sr motor. If you are going for 550-600whp I would use the 1/2 mazworx studs and send the block to them to be stepped so the head does not lift. If it were my car I would do a 2.2l by going 90mm bore with the stock stroke. I also would ditch the det head for the better flowing ve head and the addition of vvl. The rpm's should not be a issue on the bottom end but adding a ati dampener is good insurance. You will want to get a ve oil pump.

as for the z32 tranny it requires a adapter plate. You can also use the z33 tranny.

Have you thought about using a VE head instead?

I have thought about VE head, etc. but this is a lot cheaper and checking the clearance isn't a big deal every few months, etc. Remember this isn't a race motor, it's a DD so budget is a concern too. I don't want to drop another 5k just to make some record breaking SR, etc. I already have a racecar, I'm just looking for a good 450whp on pump gas, and maybe a little more on race gas, but the main concern is pump gas and reliability.

After looking at piston speeds, looks like 8000 rpm on my 91mm stroke is already a lot, so I won't go higher than that. Would a Tomei 260 or 270 cam be the better choice if the intended powerband is 4000-8000 RPM?

At what point are larger head studs needed? I feel like the 1/2" mazworx is probably hugely overkill at a "mere" 400-450wtq.

For $800 USD or so I can get Tomei solid cams, solid pivots, and test shims, then buy the shims I need, etc. but basically $1000 to have the RPM safety. Is it worth it given I'm going to limit at 8000 rpm anyway? Should I just do RR HLA's and VE oil pump and stay hydraulic with my BC 272s?

VE head + intake manifold + 1/2" head studs + all that jazz is not in the plans. I already have a super expensive racecar, need to keep this one a little simpler. (Even though it's already 2.2, etc. :P )

some pics from another thread:

some crappy cell phone pics from way back when I bought this pile


head off to machine shop - clogged cam oiling tubes -> sent cam lobe material through the motor and contaminated the bearings -> rod knock. So I'm rebuilding it. Hopefully just bearings and maybe rings, gaskets, etc. Might have to rebore and change pistons, but the bores look ok to the naked eye.



threw some BCs on it:



and some battles:



Powerlab TS manifold:





GTX3076R divided:



downpipe:



wastegate dump tubes:



meh, might be FS if I go solid lifter:



180sx tails:



S15 seats F+R and uncracked dash, score!



some suspension upgrades:



Moroso baffled extra capacity oil pan:




That's pretty much it for now, not really worried that much about response since it's a 9.5:1 2.2L stroker, and it's twin scroll. I already have a responsive drift car, my M3 pro-am dealie :









And one video from Lone Star Drift Rd 1 of my qualifying:



Thanks for looking! Hopefully I can post my questions in the correct section soon :biggthump

Mike

I don't want to send the block out, I have a great machinist, so I'll just skip the 1/2" studs if that's necessary and keep the boost lower. I'm not looking to build some world beater here. I already have the stroker 91mm crank in the block now, and I don't want to spend the money to convert to VE head, etc. Good info on the VE oil pump, I'll get one.



Does anyone already make a custom trans crossmember and DS for the Z32 swap? How about shifter and linkage to fit S13?



I have, but I'm not looking to spend that kind of money on my DD.
Mike

So many questions for one thread. I'll answer a few that stuck out to me.

If 9k RPM is the goal, go with the VE head and oil pump. The bottom end should be fine.

Cometic HGs are garbage. Stock paper is better. Stock VE MLS is fine for your goals, even 600 WHP.

Stock head bolts should be okay too, but if you want extra insurance consider the Golden Eagle (for Hondas) option. Regardless, there is no need to go to 1/2" studs.

1,000cc injectors are good for at least 700 WHP on gasoline.

I'm not a fan of bored blocks, so I'll stay out of that conversation.

Are my posts not showing up? Test. test. Finally.


The goal is 450whp on pump gas. I was just curious about other limits. So standard off the shelf ARP are fine to 600 no problem? I already have a set waiting thats why I ask.

I'll go with a cosworth gasket as that seems to be a proven solution. Do I need or should I get a VE oil pump for 8000 rpm? Is there even a need for the solid pivot if I'm "only" turning 8000 rpm due to the 91mm stroke?

Looks like my current 740cc injectors will support my pump gas goals no problem then if 1000s can do 700.

The block is 86 something or 87mm. not all that large. (certainly not a 90, and I don't intend to go any larger than absolutely necessary to make sure the bores are true).

Thanks for the help thus far guys!

Mike