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Thread: S13 SR22 build advice - SR noob

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Posts: 11-20 of 26
2013-04-09 20:08:37
#11
arp studs do not have a dog point so they don't bottom out in the block. Mazworx currently makes head studs in a 1/2 and 11mm size. Theirs are made by arp but are designed to bottom out in the block. Have the machine work done at mazworx's and get the deck stepped. this will provide the extra clamping force required to keep the head from lifting. This will not be a issue at 450whp but will be a concern over 550whp. Use the ve oil pump due to its extra capacity. Turning 8k on a det head is not a issue. The ve head flows better and will make more power there are other advantages but thats your call if its worth the extra cost. I am not a fan of over square motors but thats just my opinion. going 90mm would require the block to be sleeved any way.
2013-04-09 20:33:39
#12
Originally Posted by cortrim1
arp studs do not have a dog point so they don't bottom out in the block. Mazworx currently makes head studs in a 1/2 and 11mm size. Theirs are made by arp but are designed to bottom out in the block. Have the machine work done at mazworx's and get the deck stepped. this will provide the extra clamping force required to keep the head from lifting. This will not be a issue at 450whp but will be a concern over 550whp. Use the ve oil pump due to its extra capacity. Turning 8k on a det head is not a issue. The ve head flows better and will make more power there are other advantages but thats your call if its worth the extra cost. I am not a fan of over square motors but thats just my opinion. going 90mm would require the block to be sleeved any way.



Guys the motor is undersquare. I'm not sure why everyone keeps bringing up bore. This engine will NOT have a bore more than 87mm.

I'm not sending the block off to another state to have it machined for a simple pump gas 2.2 build. No way I need that. My local machinist can do it fine, and I really doubt I'll lift the head at 500whp or less. Remember this is going to be a DD, not a drag car.


What mods are needed to fit a VE oil pump to a DET? Is it easy or extensive? Totally necessary for 8000 rpm only?

Mike
Last edited by MikeE36 on 2013-04-09 at 20-34-54.
2013-04-09 20:47:20
#13
You said the engine had rod knock, so we all assumed you were ditching the stroker crank. You're going to try to reuse the crank? I can't imagine the journal could be salvaged. It is probably severely oval shaped and un-salvageable?

Unless the rod bearings were intact when you removed them?


The VE oil pump is a pretty easy install on a FWD engine. You need the VE oil pump, the VE oil pump pick-up tube, an oil pump drive spacer, and a VE or VE compatible crank pulley for proper pulley alignment. Here's a kit even: http://www.gspec.com/p-4911-front-coveroil-pump-kit-vvl.aspx
I have no idea what it might take to put this on a RWD engine. I think the spacing of the pulley is slightly different?

The VE oil pump is almost mandatory on serious FWD turbo or high RPM builds but the RWD DET setup with its superior oil pickup design and decent pressure can usually get away without it.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2013-04-09 at 20-56-17.
2013-04-09 20:57:20
#14
Originally Posted by MikeE36
Originally Posted by cortrim1
arp studs do not have a dog point so they don't bottom out in the block. Mazworx currently makes head studs in a 1/2 and 11mm size. Theirs are made by arp but are designed to bottom out in the block. Have the machine work done at mazworx's and get the deck stepped. this will provide the extra clamping force required to keep the head from lifting. This will not be a issue at 450whp but will be a concern over 550whp. Use the ve oil pump due to its extra capacity. Turning 8k on a det head is not a issue. The ve head flows better and will make more power there are other advantages but thats your call if its worth the extra cost. I am not a fan of over square motors but thats just my opinion. going 90mm would require the block to be sleeved any way.



Guys the motor is undersquare. I'm not sure why everyone keeps bringing up bore. This engine will NOT have a bore more than 87mm.

I'm not sending the block off to another state to have it machined for a simple pump gas 2.2 build. No way I need that. My local machinist can do it fine, and I really doubt I'll lift the head at 500whp or less. Remember this is going to be a DD, not a drag car.


What mods are needed to fit a VE oil pump to a DET? Is it easy or extensive? Totally necessary for 8000 rpm only?

Mike


the ve oil pump is a bolt on affair. It will require a different drive spacer for use with a non ve crank pulley. Its not required but its always nice to have extra capacity(higher oil pressure). My bad I meant under square not over square. Head lift will not be a issue at 500whp. You mentioned 550-600whp so I gave you a answer that will cover that power range. I understand what you are trying to build. I was only giving another option to the same path(90x86). I don't know of any other machine shop that does a stepped deck for a sr motor. it is not required for 500whp. If you intend to exceed 500whp you might want to look into it. Be sure your machine shop uses a torque plate if the motor needs to be bored. the sr suffers from bore distortion when the head and tranny are bolted up.
2013-04-09 21:01:34
#15
Originally Posted by BenFenner
You said the engine had rod knock, so we all assumed you were ditching the stroker crank. You're going to try to reuse the crank? I can't imagine the journal could be salvaged. It is probably severely oval shaped and un-salvageable?



I totally missed that it had rod knock. Hopefully the crank journals are intact.
2013-04-09 21:33:01
#16
Originally Posted by cortrim1

the ve oil pump is a bolt on affair. It will require a different drive spacer for use with a non ve crank pulley. Its not required but its always nice to have extra capacity(higher oil pressure). My bad I meant under square not over square. Head lift will not be a issue at 500whp. You mentioned 550-600whp so I gave you a answer that will cover that power range. I understand what you are trying to build. I was only giving another option to the same path(90x86). I don't know of any other machine shop that does a stepped deck for a sr motor. it is not required for 500whp. If you intend to exceed 500whp you might want to look into it. Be sure your machine shop uses a torque plate if the motor needs to be bored. the sr suffers from bore distortion when the head and tranny are bolted up.


good info, thanks!

Originally Posted by BenFenner
You said the engine had rod knock, so we all assumed you were ditching the stroker crank. You're going to try to reuse the crank? I can't imagine the journal could be salvaged. It is probably severely oval shaped and un-salvageable?

Unless the rod bearings were intact when you removed them?


The VE oil pump is a pretty easy install on a FWD engine. You need the VE oil pump, the VE oil pump pick-up tube, an oil pump drive spacer, and a VE or VE compatible crank pulley for proper pulley alignment. Here's a kit even: Front Cover/Oil Pump KIT (VVL), Front cover and oil pump from the JDM VVL motor. Will fit SR20DE wit
I have no idea what it might take to put this on a RWD engine. I think the spacing of the pulley is slightly different?

The VE oil pump is almost mandatory on serious FWD turbo or high RPM builds but the RWD DET setup with its superior oil pickup design and decent pressure can usually get away without it.


I guess we will find out about the crank condition on saturday when I get it apart. The block is still in the car. Hopefully it's not entirely trash! I didn't really even consider that problem.. d'oh! So you're saying my RWD setup has superior oiling and it might not be mandatory at 8000 rpm and fresh DET pump? It is a RWD after all.

Originally Posted by cortrim1
Originally Posted by BenFenner
You said the engine had rod knock, so we all assumed you were ditching the stroker crank. You're going to try to reuse the crank? I can't imagine the journal could be salvaged. It is probably severely oval shaped and un-salvageable?



Hopefully not!

I totally missed that it had rod knock. Hopefully the crank journals are intact.


Yeah, we will see Saturday. I'll be sure to post pics of what it looks like in there.

thanks for the help!

Mike
2013-04-09 21:45:40
#17
You have some very nice toys sir. I would pm Ziptied he had a s13 with a z32 tranny and could give all the info you need on how to make it work. On the head studs 1/2 are not even needed at 500whp you could go with the regular mazworx 11mm units. If you are having machine work done it would not hurt to do the larger head studs. I tend to over build stuff because I know I will crank the boost eventually
2013-04-09 23:08:03
#18
Mike, a lot of us FWD guys start with N/A SR20s and thus we have lower volume and lower pressure pumps to start with. Those of us with these N/A pumps could use the upgrade. A good bit of us FWD guys start out with turbo SR20DET blocks though, which have I assume an identical spec pump to the RWD SR20DET. The DET engines came with higher flowing, and higher pressure oil pumps, and you have the RWD oil pan setup so you should be okay. That being said, the GTi-R oil pump flows more and with more pressure, and the VE oil pump flows even more volume and at an even higher pressure. It would be nice to have, but probably not 100% necessary.
2013-04-09 23:12:34
#19
Originally Posted by cortrim1
Originally Posted by MikeE36
Originally Posted by cortrim1
arp studs do not have a dog point so they don't bottom out in the block. Mazworx currently makes head studs in a 1/2 and 11mm size. Theirs are made by arp but are designed to bottom out in the block. Have the machine work done at mazworx's and get the deck stepped. this will provide the extra clamping force required to keep the head from lifting. This will not be a issue at 450whp but will be a concern over 550whp. Use the ve oil pump due to its extra capacity. Turning 8k on a det head is not a issue. The ve head flows better and will make more power there are other advantages but thats your call if its worth the extra cost. I am not a fan of over square motors but thats just my opinion. going 90mm would require the block to be sleeved any way.


Excellent, thanks for the clarification!

I'm used to BMWs that run 70 psi oil pressure max, so the DET RWD pump already pushing 90 psi seems like a lot to me. I've heard of VEs being in the 130+ range and was a little worried about blowing gaskets all over the place with that kind of oil pressure + I'm trying to K.I.S.S. (within reason of such a build... )

Mike
2013-04-10 00:01:18
#20
nismo trans maybe an option?
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