Thread: Opinions on bottom end rebuild

So I was thinking of having the bottom end rebuilt while I'm out on my next contract and I was wondering what you guys thought. Nothing amazing crazy planned, but it still merits me asking on opinions:

CP 87mm 8.5:1 pistons, rings, and that jazz (or should I go with JE? Opinions?)
ARP rod bolts
Cosworth HG (not sure on the thickness yet, ideas?)
Porting of the oil ways and making sure everything is nice, clean, and to spec
Balancing the crank
New OEM bearings all around
New Water & Oil pump (maybe VE, people are half and half swearing up and down it's either bigger/better or not)
New pullies all around

I have future plans of fluffing up the head later, but one thing at a time for now. My end goal is for 500whp when wanted/needed. She sits around the very low 300s for now, and when I slap on a GT30R I'm sure I can get 500 if I tune right (after the head work to of course), I just want to make sure the bottom end is strong, not over the top, but above all things not too week.

BTW, not that it matter much but this is on a 54C block.

go with CP 90mm, and sleeve it with darton sleeves!

2.2 L SR FTW! haha

u can easily achieve that with that kind build easily, stock blocks can me 400 so 500 is easy on aftermarkt build

the crank is balanced from the factory so it might be a waste. you don't mention rods if your shooting for 500hp you'll want to upgrade those too

Yeah, i thought about rods, but I know the 54c rods are beefie. Many guys in the UK say the stock rods can take it so I went with the "if it's not broken, don't fix it" philosophy. But, if you guys think it might be needed let me know. I think it might be a little overkill though.


And I thought about the 90mm 2.2 route, but decided to leave that for an other project car I have planed out.

i would personally upgrade the rods, me personally i have the eagle rods and they arent very spendy for the extra added support, 54c are beefy but nothing like aftermarket billet rods

the crankshaft is balanced from factory, but you have to take into cosideration you are adding in new pistons and maybe new rods, maybe even a aftermarket flywheel, so i always recomend having the complete rotation assembly balanced and rotated. pistons,rods,flywheel,and possibly crankshaft pully if you are using a aftermarket one. i do this on all my builds.

also another thing you can have done is have the crankshaft lightened, knife edged all that hat stuff, that is great too for if you build is going to rev high, lighter crank=faster revs.

jus some thoughts, i personaly like to go all out on my machine work, alot of the things that machinest can do will really make a difference in the way you make power, like lightening up the assembly and balancing the assembly 2 big things that will really make a difference

I for one will not lighten up a stock crank because the crank will then vibrate more. Mazworx didn't even lighten the stock crank in there car and it is reving to 11k just fine.

I would balance everything like said above and do it right the first time.

I would like to stick with the 19mm rods. I konw eagles are 17mm, but I have a few good options so i'm not worried. And definatly going to blanace the crank & flywheel. Thank you guys for pointing that out.

I wish there was a good machinist around here (north GA) that I could just drop the block off with and say "make it amazing". But I'm good with shipping it off too.

Any other sujestions or input guys?

From the THE ARP headstud comparison thread has some interesting info in it. I think people have been leaning more towards OEM,Jun, or Greedy studs.



^I was wondering about that as well. I don't hear people posting up that they do much of this.



^Yep



^How much beefer than JDM and USDM? I have a 10:1 UK motor I'm getting ready to put in my daily.

If you aren't a professional or are not sponsored, keep it as simple as possible so you can afford to fix it.