Thread: Cranking, not firing properly, too burnt to troubleshoot....

Did you have something in particular, in mind? I know the forum went down for a while so I didn't know if you had something else in mind or not

I'm going to see this evening what I did that was so stupid, that the BPT valve is even hooked up.

Crap!

So I went out to check the BPT valve (I left my damn keys at the office, thank God for hoodpins.)

Lo' and behold! There's a vacuum line that runs from the galley to the BPT valve on top, and then the other nipple on top of the BPT valve was blocked off. This does NOTHING to fix vacuum leak.

That was what I had in mind. I got rid of all my emissions stuff. Needless to say, vacuum lines are really simple. I have the BOV tied into the brake booster, a dedicated line running to the FPR/ boost gauge/ wastegate, and the big line from the IACV. That's pretty much it. I'm throwing codes though. I just took out the bulb.

I considered that, but the only problem I have with just removing the bulb, is that it's still throwing a code. Where I'm at, they simply do the OBD2 test for "emissions", and not the sniffer test, to ensure that all systems are working properly.

I wish I was in another county where they don't do ANYTHING, but that's obviously not going to happen I'm going to fire her up today and see what vacuum looks like. There's a tiny leak on the AAC bypass hose to the nipple on the charge pipe, as the nipple is too small for the hose. I don't think it would be that big of a deal, though.

I'm just hoping that I see at least 16inHg at idle, and the idle is solid.

More to follow

Tekkie keep in mind you may lose some vaccum due to the cams. So if the cams you have are anyting like S4's you will lose some. IIRC my DE-T back in the days with S4 cams my vaccum at idle read 12-14.

Rob -

That's still just as well. Anything over 0~5inHg at idle would be a blessing.

All I have to do now, if the leaking issues have been fixed, is to replace the hub on the front right, and bleed the coolant system (AGAIN), as well as fix the oil leak from the timing cover to the head.

Going to need to install the 2nd slim fan on the radiator as well, I think.

Yet another leak found and fixed:

AAC valve. A while back, I had replaced my defective AAC valve with another AAC valve, and it looks like I must have swapped the defective one back into the car! Started digging to find the other one, and it was sitting in the box it was shipped to me in. STRANGE. I must have been drunk or something Anyhow, the 95~97 IM that I bought from Jason came with the AAC valve on it still, so I swapped it over right now.

I did a FULL pressure test of the intercooler piping, and found that one section of the pipe wasn't fully welded. there's about 1/4" gap between the welds on the pipe. It's going to get fixed, but not completely necessary as I'm running blow thru and not draw thru. It still holds pressure, and is more like a tiny crack than anything.

More to follow again later

I mistakenly forgot to replace a valve cover gasket and had a similar scenario. It is still your stock lowport with the goofy emissions stuff? I have found at least 2 open tubes off of my stock 98 manifold.

Yep, still the stock lowport intake manifold. I found another leak using my "stethoscope". The EGR block off plate was leaking AWFULLY. Fixed that, and did another pressure test, don't really hear any air coming from that area. Used JB Quik on it in hopes that it will never come off. Now getting around 16inHg at idle, but car still feels kinda strange. I have a feeling the TPS is fubared for some reason. If I BARELY touch the gas pedal, just enough to feel the throttle cable tighten, the car just dumps fuel and the AFR's go rich and she bogs down. What's wierd is that the voltages all seem correct.

Around .52vdc~.54vdc at idle, and ~4.08vdc at WOT. I think I'm going to adjust it down more to ~.46vdc and see what happens.

Update:

I'm uber PISSED off. I dropped the fuel injectors off this morning at a local fuel injection shop, to be tested. Turn around time is expected to be 24 hours, which I thought was decent. Considering the fact that they're also a locally owned business, I decided to support the local economy. Fuel injection service (flow test and cleaning/replacement of durable goods) is priced at only $19 per injector. Sounds too good to be true, right? Right.

Bad news. I call the shop this afternoon because fuel pressure popped into my head, and I wanted to ensure they tested the injectors at 3bar. I was told by the lady that the technician will test at 20~30psi. WTF?!!?!! So I ask her kindly to have the technician test them at 43psi, and again at 59psi.

She calls me back around 10 minutes later, stating that the technician will not test at these pressures as the hose will come off. I ask her, "surely this is a testbench defect, as the injectors are designed to run at 3bar", and she claims that the injectors would not support over 30psi. I then ask her "What do you mean by hose coming off, if they're side feed injectors? The hose is attached to the fuel rail, not the injector!", and she had no response.

Tomorrow I'm going to the shop to talk with the technician. I have a feeling I'm going to be pretty pissed off with the service I receive.

Sucks when you do your part to try and support your local economy, and you don't get the services you requested.

I'm going to spread the word to every single tuner shop in the region to stay away from this shop.