Thread: Cranking, not firing properly, too burnt to troubleshoot....

I had one of the reverse thread bits break off in the broken bolt. F-ing sucked. Now I only use the hammer-in "washington monument" kind. They work very well, but drilling the hole is the hard part. The broken bolt is very hard and the aluminum is very soft. The drill wants to slip to the side and drill into the aluminum. You have to be very careful and work your way up from a small bit.






The hard part about that is going to be what I was talking about up there^^^. Drilling out a hardened steel bolt surrounded by aluminum is easier said than done. The only way you could ever do that is with a drill press (head off). You can get that bolt out of there with an extractor. Just take your time and you'll get it.

Most if not all of the material of the bolt, is gone now. I'm just going to get a tap and re-tap the hole, for the bolt, and see how it holds. If I can tighten it and torque it to spec, then it should be fine.

IT LIVES!!!!!!

I'm so friggin happy it's running it's not even funny! It wont STAY running, but as long as I keep the revs around 2K, it runs just fine. Don't hear any issues. I need to reset the self learn, bump the fuel pressure a bit if it's not set correctly, double check timing, and do a few other things. I'm just glad it started. I feel like I've accomplished so much, and learned so much about the car.

I'm guessing that the rocker wasn't positioned properly, and just fell off.

glad to hear its running!

Eh, victory was short lived. Now coolant is boiling out of the overflow tank, and according to conzult, the temps were at about 255F when I just shut her down. Pretty sure I bled the system properly. Not sure WHAT to look for right now. Runs like ass, like there's a gigantic vacuum leak, too.

sometimes I tilt the engine while bleeding it to be sure all the air gets out. vaccum leaks are a PAIN...if you don't have a pressure tester just go the primitive but effective way and get a silcone hose and use it as a stethoscope to listen for leaks. I use it also to make sure injs are working. Just do a overall check and balance to be sure...also get rest and recollect yourself....sometimes working on your car for so long burns you out and you end up losing your train of thought.

I would re-bleed the coolant system. It is a total pain to bleed our coolant systems, IMHO. If you have decent water from your hose, you can try going to Walmart or Auto zone or any place like that and buying the Prestone "flush n fill" kit. It comes with a t that you put on one of your heater hoses (just cut it and clamp it on - the kit comes with clamps) It t has a threaded and on it with cap that attaches to any standard hose. Then all you have to do to bleed the system is hook up the hose, open your radiator cap and turn on the hose. It works very well for me, you might give it a try if you can't get all the bubbles out of the system.

Yeah I used to tilt the car also, that helps a lot.

Does the car need to be running? I bought the kit but it says that I need to start the car. Which means I'd need to fix my my idle/vacuum issue first. Water is okay, but it gets pretty hot here in the summer, so I'd rather flush it with coolant. Does this mean I need to drain the coolant again?

Teks FYI, I only use distilled water. I use the Prestone coolant 50/50 mix that is in a yellow container. But I still mixed mine with distilled and water wetter and never ahd overheating problems here in Vegas.

How did you bleed the system? Did you uncsrew the bolt on the thermo housing and rad cap off? That is how I do mine and the start her up let it sit for a bit and give it a few revs...also like I said tilting the engine while bleeding helps too.