Originally Posted by
ashtonsser I didnt shit on your article Steve. That wasnt the point. I simply pointed out that alot of the parts you guys choose to use and information you have is ancient. As for the shockproof I was under the assumption you were using the heavy shockproof which was equivelent to a 250w oil. If this is true then yes the Valvoline Durablend which is a synthetic oil would be better than that.
Naw baws. Shockweight is 75w90 that has a film thickness of 250w. There's some cool chemical engineering that goes into that stuff.
Originally Posted by
ashtonsser About it not withstanding temps? Are you kidding me? This oil is usually used in big rig and big heavy duty trucks that do 100's of thousands of miles, im sure it can handle our measly little road racing and drag racing. Again its proven man. Ask anyone. its not dinosaur oil. These are their all new formulas and so on. Again meant for high temp, high sheer points, and meant to stand up to abuse. Again numbers done lie. My car as well was making over 400ft lbs of torque to the wheels on pump gas. More closer to about 450-475wtq on 30psi of boost.
The reason I say this is because it's petroleum-based, not synthetic, which is generally good for 260* before it starts breaking down. Big heavy trucks are engineered as big heavy trucks. What they lack in cutting edge lubricants, they make up for in capacity. Engines use 15 gallons of oil, diffs hold at least 5 gallons, etc. These trucks see huge loading, but they never see huge temperatures.
Conversely, a Sentra was designed for 140hp and 3k gross. We need to make up for the lack of capacity with fancy fluids. I'm glad the Valvoline works for you, but the Redline works pretty well for us.
Originally Posted by
ashtonsser Again, great article Steve. Im not shitting on it at all. I respect all your guys' work. I just question some of the decisions. Again according to my thread the swap can be done on your P10 for roughly 2000-2500 easily. No question. Yes there is some notching involved. Who cares. Nothing that takes away strength of the vehicle. No more extensive of work than dissesembling and entire p11 trans all the way down to every single piece and part seperated for treatment. No harder than doing any of that.
True, but again, the Spec V trans is better served in Martin's car, which will actually be a max power car that is driven on the street. The weight is less a concern, the 6th gear will be nice for cruising, and the extra torque holding will be put to better use.
Originally Posted by
ashtonsser As for cable transmissions being sloppy. If you have shitty motor mounts then yes it can and will feel very sloppy. With urethane mounts, its pretty solid. Yes the cables snake around but they are solid attached at both ends. No movement or play allowed. Again, just my experience and was sharing it with you. Not to shit on your article. I only didnt read the last page as I missed it. But to hopefully help you out. Take it with a grain of salt. Or not. I dont care.
I've never liked cable shifted transmissions. This includes my father-in-law's dune buggy, which has a 100% solid-mounted drivetrain. Feels more clunky and vague than my solid-linkage setup in my buggy.
Pinche frijole!
Originally Posted by
ashtonsser Dont get your panties all up in a bunch. All I did was offer some insight and advice and correct some information.
BTW 6 speed gearboxes are 100X more plentiful than p11/b15 boxes and yes this includes the QG18 gearbox which uses the same gearstacks as the p11. So spare parts can be easily sourced for cheap. I see 250-300 dollar 6 speed boxes all the time. So yeah.
I've seen more QG18/P11/B15 SR20 boxes on car-part.com, probably because these vehicles are valued less and are more likely to be in the scrapyards. Yes, some dude on the forum may very well have one for cheap on a part out, but I'd prefer to deal with someone who knows how to ship things, gives me a warranty, ships promptly, and will refund my money without spending it on something else. Hard to find one local.
Originally Posted by
ashtonsser Again I get the fact that road racing on tracks like that are hard on parts. I also can see why they went their route. Again im not saying its wrong, im just throwing out some suggestions and correcting some misinformation about the swap.
No problem. I have no problem with suggestions. If that's all you meant, then let me give you a suggestion: starting a suggestion by telling someone they're behind the times isn't conducive to a sane conversation. Expect people to get shittay.
Originally Posted by
ashtonsser This forum is here for people to grow and learn from each other. In turn they provided some good information in a debatable format. Simple as that. No hating, no arguing, no calling names needed. Just simple debate and answering questions.
Meh. Forums are for ARGUING!!!! YOUR MOM BLOWS GOATS, I HAVE PROOF!