Thread: P11 Transmission Article

I think we might be in the clear with GL-4 Rating

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Thanks for your reply.

Are there any images of the infill aluminum pieces before they were welded?

I don't think Ashton read the article or know who Rockwood is

From a road racer myself where having used a B15 SE box in a T3 turboed B14 on track, it's almost pointless to even consider the 6 speed as as mentioned, it's not quiet "bolt on" (or cheap) as Ashton states. The B15/P11 will be plenty good for a road racer with 300whp..............Or better yet (since this is what breaks boxes) 300ft-lbs ATWs

Plus, if they do blow it up (which I find hard to believe), the box itself is barely more expensive than a proper B14 gearbox with much improved strength (read: box is not LSD) and can be had because as mentioned "all the boost junkies swapped up the LSD B15/P11 boxes from the yard".

Ashton, no offense, but until you have actually road raced and understand the conditions, I do not think you have much grounds to dispatch most of the findings, opinions or comments from fellow road racers. A road race setup and goals are entirely different than that of a drag racer.

P.S Although B15 brembos are nice, the added unsprung weight is also not exactly warrantied for the class these guys are running. Do not forget, the reason they had to "detune" is because they did not want to be bumped up in weight unnecessarily as things like tire wear become an issue and tires degrade much more rapidly. All said and done, with B15 brakes, new tranny and mounts, splies, etc, you can be looking at close to 60-80lbs of additional unwanted weight for not much in the way of gains, but much more in the way of losses. Hoosiers aint cheap!!!

@Vadim

If you go to Valvolines web site it will say that they are API GL-4 * certified (note the asterisk)

Then if you read where the * leads to, it says....

"In Synchronized manual transmission applications use:
o Valvoline Professional Series Manual Transmission Fluid or
o Valvoline Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid (Sept. 2012)"

And they are?



Thanks for the support. The final thing that sold me was seeing countless QG18DE/pegleg P11 transmissions for under $400 on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market. Since we will need to swap our NISMO diff in, we'll probably just build up a spare gearstack. That'll not only cut down on cost, it'll also mean less shit to lug to the track. As it sits right now, we fill up the 8' bed on my CTD Dodge with support shit/spares.

We're in the process of finally upgrading our stock P10 brakes. The new power levels are stressing the stock setup pretty badly, though I've never seen any fade on the track, the rotors/pads don't last like they used to, and smoke pours out in the hotpits while setting tire pressure. Stay tuned for a future article on that one. Definitely not going with a B15 setup though, even though it is a fairly nice setup (other than weight).

Are you considering a willwood setup Rockwood?? Or simply a NX (or another) upgrade?? I hear the weight difference between the two setup is noticeable and I am sure pads are easily and more cheaply available for the dynalite calipers

Just curious

Nah, though NX is close. This is a P10.

Wilwood is definitely a front-runner, but in the end, we're cheap bastards, so it'll probably be a junkyard setup. The Hawk Blues we're running work very well for the stock setup, so we'll try to stay in that realm.

I knew I was close in my guess

Shop around here (or he other forum) as you may find a nice set of willwoods for a godo price if you do change your mind

A nice "post" from your very own Kojima way back on Fastbrakes (and why I currently runt hem with zero problems so far on my HPDE car)

http://www.sr20forum.com/942993-post18.html

And even better yet, a post by you at the end of the thread

http://www.sr20forum.com/autocross-rally-racing/103097-nx-upgrade-vs-fastbrakes-11-kit-opinions-needed-2.html

1. Ever measure camber curve or toe curve of your P10 race car?

Nope. Just cut a cardboard template out first, then trace it onto some 1/4"-1/2" aluminum plate.

Far easier, and nearly as strong, is to just fill it with epoxy (i.e. JB Weld).