Thread: Homemade PCV

Coach showed me this (RIPP 30psi PCV)
After seeing it, I wasnt going to pay $60 for it. Based on people making homemade boost controllers, I figured this would work also. Since the concept is similar.

Basically its 2 - 3/8" barb fittings, a nipple, spring and ball bearing.

I got almost everything (except the ball bearing) from Fastenal. The ball bearing I got the best results with is a 5/16" bearing. I tried all these: 000 buck shot round / belly button ring / rounded screw
I cut a coil or two from the spring to fit inside the nipple better.

I think I spent around $10-12 on the parts. With the two balls I tried before the 5/16 ball they allowed me to blow past them a tiny bit (which was still better than the PCV valve thats in the VC). With the last ball, I cannot blow past it with my breath. And the air compressor I borrowed I already returned.

Just remember to install it the correct way when you put it in.
I have a catch can that is in the intake<=>VC line --- i put this valve b/t the catch and the intake.

This is basically acting as a one way valve. It allows the intake to draw vacuum on the crank case at idle and decel, but it prevents boost from entering the crank case during boost. This is something that every turbo vehicle should have in their cars in my opinion!

Great write up!

Brent

I need to do this.

I made a similar device, but using a Tee for my EGR canister. One thing that I did find is, after about 5 psi it still was leaking through to the EGR canister/fuel tank. While the PCV valve on my VE didn't leak even at 20 psi. I think it all depends on the mating surface of the barb against the ball.

Just an FYI .

Mine has gone through many "stoppers" under the breath blow test...
The latest ball bearing passes the test. The others leaked a small amount (which was still better than the pcv valve in the VC)

Mine passed the breath blow test too, until I hooked up a boost gauge right after the one way valve. It was the only real way to see if boost was leaking past it.

The new pcv in the valve cover didnt pass the blow test... so if the one i made does, Its already an improvement.

Vadim, quit being so negative and running this down before you even know results. The strength of the spring and size of the ball bearing used can make a TON of difference in the function of this valve as a PCV. The one thing I can't stand about this community is how people will immediately turn down an idea or product because of one experience they had or something they read somewhere. As a community, we really need to start supporting each other much more than we do.

Brent

I was getting ready to buy one from Autozone, did what I hate doing, opened the box and blew into it, blast it passed air through! I'm sticking to OEM ones for my VE/RR, but once I use a VE VC on a DET I might need to do something similar as this.



I'm sorry I thought as community we are supposed to share our experiences. I'm not being negative, I'm just giving another point to pay attention too. If we all become Yes Men then progression will stop. We as a community need to bounce ideas, and people that have had the time to experiment prior that should contribute and help the idea. Otherwise the person will have to redo a bunch of work just to get to the same point.

I can see why some people don't care about posting their ideas, because we have fake "positive" people stumping them down.

My issue is he made a one way valve to put inline with the stock PCV so your experiences with PCV options aren't the same. The RIPP valve is proven to work and he basically made his own version. I just don't see how it won't work outside of possibly needing a bigger body/bearing combo.

Brent