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Thread: Homemade PCV

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Posts: 21-30 of 31
2012-10-18 20:50:58
#21
Screw PCV on turbo cars.

There is my 2 cents.

Nice idea. When i used to run the de head and still used the PCV valve i didnt have any issues. The metal body pcv's seem to be much better than the plastic ones. If need be you could always just drill and tap the valve cover to accept the 3/8" npt threaded metal pcv's that the de uses. Yes there was a very tiny bit of air to get by under the blow test but not enough to pressurize the crankcase if you have a proper breather system set up.

I later just ditched the whole pcv all together and never looked back. You really dont need it.
2012-10-18 20:53:02
#22
You mean b/c you are MAP based and VTA your catch-can lines from your valve cover?
2012-10-18 21:17:26
#23
Doesnt matter if your map based or maf based. The amount of air being sucked in from the crankcase is very miniumal and most of you have tunable ecus anyways so you can always tune to compensate for the "missing metered air".

Here is my take, I dont like running the valve cover breather back to the intake pipe between the maf and turbo to properly make the air taken through the pcv be metered air. For one because it puts oil into intake pipe and compressor side of the turbo, two again its soo miniumal who cares. If your running blow through then it really doesnt matter as there is no way to run the valve cover vent to make it take in metered air anyways.

If your map based then there is really no reason for it.

The only real benefit to PCV is reinjest blow by gases on cold starts and during warm up, to also help ring seal on cold starts and during in vac situations. Again a very minimal difference.

There is a reason why most turbo guys just ditch the pcv all together in the honda community. Because its very much in fact pointless. The benifits of having it do not outweigh the benifits of ditching it and just venting the crankcase properly and turning the once pcv into an additional vent to a catch can. Your blow by gases will go into the catch can especially during cold days and cold starts and during warm up. You will notice the condensation buildup of the blow by gases in the catch can.

Its easier and simpler to just ditch it. Again unless you have inspection that absolutely requires it then ditch it. Its better to just have a properly vented crank than to have PCV
2012-10-19 00:42:43
#24
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000

the extra space the nipple Im using allow for easier adjustment of the spring pressure on the ball. The more force on the spring means it takes more vacuum to open it. Im completely happy with the longer version I made.

Although Lowes was the first place I tried, besides the fittings they had no loose springs or ball bearings. Also the closest ACE or Home Depot is an hour or more away.


Home Depot is no better then lowes, ACE is the only place where I could find my springs and ball bearings. I'm glad I have a local place. I sometimes get lost there looking for car/airsoft parts
2012-10-19 00:47:47
#25
I found everything but the ball bearing at Fastenal ... although they had bearings with balls in them... but nothing loose.

Unless I could setup an electric vacuum for the crankcase, i'll keep my PCV system
Last edited by unijabnx2000 on 2012-10-19 at 03-40-27.
2012-10-19 11:22:45
#26
i am also looking into brake booster check valves..
2012-10-19 12:06:23
#27
How would this setup look on a ve valve cover
2012-10-19 13:06:05
#28
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
I found everything but the ball bearing at Fastenal ... although they had bearings with balls in them... but nothing loose.

Unless I could setup an electric vacuum for the crankcase, i'll keep my PCV system


Actually Ashton is correct about not needing the PCV. PCV is one of the first emission parts that cars received, It's not necessarily the most efficient though. It's out of date, it allows oil to be sucked directly into the manifold and into the cylinders hurting efficiency.

PCV valve shuts closed with boost, or stops working as soon as you are at 0 vacuum. That means at WOT it's not helping reduce crankcase pressure much at all. Now the valve cover breather on the other hand does a world of a difference. I was attempting new methods of sucking out crancase pressure via VC breather, I tried the exhaust evacuation system but it didn't work well for me. I had oil all over the engine bay that sprayed from the valve cover gasket from crank overpressure. I tried just setting it up to vent to atmosphere but it still didn't like that. Best way to reduce the crank case pressure was to keep it hooked up to the turbo intake, where turbo was working like a vacuum pump.
2012-10-19 16:30:37
#29
Originally Posted by qwkse-r
How would this setup look on a ve valve cover


It would look the same for me. I use a catch can in that line, so i have plenty of room for it with all the extra hose.

Originally Posted by Vadim

Actually Ashton is correct about not needing the PCV. PCV is one of the first emission parts that cars received, It's not necessarily the most efficient though. It's out of date, it allows oil to be sucked directly into the manifold and into the cylinders hurting efficiency.

PCV valve shuts closed with boost, or stops working as soon as you are at 0 vacuum. That means at WOT it's not helping reduce crankcase pressure much at all. Now the valve cover breather on the other hand does a world of a difference. I was attempting new methods of sucking out crankcase pressure via VC breather, I tried the exhaust evacuation system but it didn't work well for me. I had oil all over the engine bay that sprayed from the valve cover gasket from crank overpressure. I tried just setting it up to vent to atmosphere but it still didn't like that. Best way to reduce the crank case pressure was to keep it hooked up to the turbo intake, where turbo was working like a vacuum pump.


Im going to be catchcan-ing the 5/8" VC line evenutally. If I come across an electric vac pump, I may just use that and remove the PCV line to the intake mani.
2012-11-01 13:59:10
#30
Ok folks, I put a 10psi compressor line to one end and I didn't have any leaks. I will try it at higher pressures this weekend. I just had two hose barb fittings laying around and a ball bearing/spring out of an old manual boost controller I had made and so far so good.

Brent
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