Thread: Tapping block for sr20ve t- quick question

Thanks have asked, but will possibly just like to have my own tools, and then share around for those in the UK too.

What I really need...P.s I will spend all weekend looking and going to plumbing, D.I.Y, and tool stores.

there u go, its not that cheap to get the right tools, also u will need a 1/2" chuck drill also to use this unless u find a smaller shank drill bit

You have to remove the upper and lower oil pans!!! If you don't you will have a ton of metal shavings.

Also be careful when tapping it, don't put too much strength into it or you can break it (it's aluminum after all). Finally when installing the barb, keep in mind that 1/2NPT is a self sealing thread, thus the threads get bigger on the barb it self. If you screw it in too far it will crack your block.



1/2" shank is the most common, I think I've seen smaller but it's a rarity!

Are you using a top mount manifold. If you are, you don't have to tap the block, you'd just have to remove the grub screw above in the first pic you posted. You would be able to get the barb for the return from Home Depot.

Drill straight through, use small bits and work your way up, take your time. If your angle is off, you can risk drilling out the mating surface where the upper oil pan is supposed to seal to the block.

As stated above, you must remove the lower and upper oil pans, when you remove the old rtv, use a flat and wide scraper. Don't use a screw driver and scratch the matting surfaces. Clean the mating surfaces with a cloth rag and some carb or brake cleaner before putting on the new rtv gasket (I used permatex, the grey stuff, works great, not a single leak/drop).

This is pretty much a no brainer, don't rush the job, get the right parts, stay organized to put things back together, double check your work (tighten down all of the bolts and put back in their original locations, the lengths will be different). You'll be fine.

Oh and the last part, there are 2 nuts (yes nuts not bolts) that come off on the upper oil pan and are on the side of the pan towards the transmission. You can see the flywheel through this portion of the upper oil pan, the 2 nuts are hiding up there, I found them easiest to get to with a small socket set I had laying around. I'm pretty sure they were 2 10mm nuts, huge PITA to reach with an open ended wrench or any other tool. Be sure to take out those nuts before prying off the pan.

Also never ever ever use a screw driver to remove the lower (black) oil pan! Use a very fine knife and spatula like objects. Carefully hammer the knife in and start letting go of the oem RTV. If you use an object that is sharp but gets big quickly (flat head screw driver), you will bend the oil pan unevenly and you will need to buy a new one!

Yes, a thick puddy knife works well...get one with a solid handle b/c you'll probably be using your hammer on it too!

Also, for the lower oil pan...place your lower oil pan face down (drain plug on top) on a piece of wood (I used a 2x4), place the ball end of the hammer in each of the mounting holes and lightly tap it with another hammer/mallet. Don't go crazy here, one decent 'whack' should do it... this is just to get the distorted hole back to neutral or slightly convex...makes for a better seal...Permatex Grey!

Thanks guys will feedback soon.

What? Does he mean the two screws just below the cylinder head?

Yes, the lower screw, technically the oil just has to drain down, so you can do that. Right above the white arrow in your very first pic.