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Thread: the ”noobs” build...

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Posts: 21-30 of 36
2012-08-17 18:43:28
#21
ive been rockin the arp bolts for over 5 years arp headstuds and cometic headgasket no issues....however if i were to do it over i would go with ge if possible or cosworth.
2012-08-17 19:22:19
#22
I think the issue is related to big power builds. what kind of numbers you put up for the past 5 yrs?
2012-08-17 19:34:04
#23
Ok u see @ the end of the bolt how its silver looking not black....well thats all the thread that the stock head bolts use the reast is just access..its like 2mm longer then the arp's...
2012-08-17 19:49:28
#24
If you want to use the arp then go for it...
2012-08-17 20:18:47
#25
I would not use the arp head studs. Mazworx,cosworth,jun, and greddy are all designed right. The arp main studs are fine to use. I have them in my motor and did not have to modify them but I am also using a de upper and lower oil pan on a ve block.
2012-08-17 20:18:51
#26
interesting post.... 2mm is not alot tho
2012-08-17 22:23:02
#27
I am also using ARP main studs in my motor and having 0 issues. Once I torqued down the mains I spun the crank by hand and it would spin for days. Didn't line hone it, either. Just measured everything and went with a std bearing. Then I put the rods and pistons in and could still spin easily by hand. I did have the crank cleaned, polished, and balanced.
2012-08-18 03:45:53
#28
Originally Posted by MR-4Door-SR20DET
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
The fact is if you would have done some research on here you would have found out that the ARP head studs suck balls.

Thats the problem with soo many "newbie" peoples builds is they go off super old information instead of doing some research on current and good parts.

The ARP studs are not proper studs, they do not bottom out in the bottom of the block like a proper stud should. There are many other options for studs besides the old ARP's. GE B16a studs, Mazworx ARP2000 studs, and several other brands but they are more expensive. The best bet is just to get the Mazworx Studs. Those ARP's are nothing but problems and stock head bolts would be better than those. They like to pull threads out of the block because again they do not sit properly, they distort the cylinder walls because the load is placed higher on the block. I could go on and on.

Second, I would also ditch the cometic headgasket. Another sub par part. Go with an OEM SR20VET metal gasket or Cosworth headgasket or the PE gasket from Mazworx. All much better options.

Third, I hope you know that if you use the main studs that your supposed to line hone the block. Again because ARP studs you have are again not proper and dont bottom out in the main bolt holes, they will distort the journals and youll probably run into issues with the crank not even wanting to turn when torqued down. Same goes for any main stud. If you dont want to get machine work done on the mains, I suggest contacting Greg V at Gspec performance and get some GTIR main bolts. Much stronger bolts and they are cheap and will hold anything you can throw at it. You can get the VET headgasket from him as well.


Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
GE studs weren't available last time I tried, so I got Mazworx and they are awesome


^I'm glad I got my GE head bolts from you(ashton) when I did. Nobody on eBay even had them at the time. Doesn't look like they are going to be making anymore.


lol, Yeah I should have bought like 20 sets, cuz at the time i was getting them for 105 shipped to my door new and there was plenty of sets. I could have made a nice chunk of profit on those if I had done so.
2012-08-18 05:18:13
#29
I have arp head and main studs for my engine and a cometic gasket I have never seen a problem first hand with the arp , cometic combo hell we where making 550hp on boost and they spraying the car with a 75hp hit of nitrous and never had a problem.
2012-08-18 07:03:25
#30
Originally Posted by blo0d
interesting post.... 2mm is not alot tho




Its not enogh to make a difference so thread wise on arp head/B im good..
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