Thread: the ”noobs” build...

fell free to bitch moan and give ur in put...So I have s3 BC cams, rocker stoppers, BC v/spring kis, eagle rods, manle piston, 86.5 & 8.5 comp, cometic HG, complete wox ob the long block 3 anglr valve job all decked and milled, arp Mains, arp head ,acl (h)) series bearings .10 , clevit thrust washers, ve oen new oil pump, all OEM new timing kiy (from nissan), n62 maf, fel-pro valve seals.....oh in my 92 no sun roof classic...wat u think..

This is my concerne arp (top) vs stock

what about it?

The stock one has like twice the amount of thread

The fact is if you would have done some research on here you would have found out that the ARP head studs suck balls.

Thats the problem with soo many "newbie" peoples builds is they go off super old information instead of doing some research on current and good parts.

The ARP studs are not proper studs, they do not bottom out in the bottom of the block like a proper stud should. There are many other options for studs besides the old ARP's. GE B16a studs, Mazworx ARP2000 studs, and several other brands but they are more expensive. The best bet is just to get the Mazworx Studs. Those ARP's are nothing but problems and stock head bolts would be better than those. They like to pull threads out of the block because again they do not sit properly, they distort the cylinder walls because the load is placed higher on the block. I could go on and on.

Second, I would also ditch the cometic headgasket. Another sub par part. Go with an OEM SR20VET metal gasket or Cosworth headgasket or the PE gasket from Mazworx. All much better options.

Third, I hope you know that if you use the main studs that your supposed to line hone the block. Again because ARP studs you have are again not proper and dont bottom out in the main bolt holes, they will distort the journals and youll probably run into issues with the crank not even wanting to turn when torqued down. Same goes for any main stud. If you dont want to get machine work done on the mains, I suggest contacting Greg V at Gspec performance and get some GTIR main bolts. Much stronger bolts and they are cheap and will hold anything you can throw at it. You can get the VET headgasket from him as well.

GE studs weren't available last time I tried, so I got Mazworx and they are awesome

Cosworth. case closed

Yep, for a DE the Cosworth headgasket is absolutely amazing. Same gasket I used on my built VE block/DE head setup mixed with GE studs the head didnt go anywhere. $150 from FRsport.com

The VET gasket is about $80 and is also a very good gasket. But for multilayer gaskets, Cosworth gaskets are awesome. if only they would make them for the VE.

They'll tell you the GE studs are backordered and not in stock, then refund your money...

Yeah, your better off to just get the Mazworx headstuds. Simple as that. Done deal.