Join Date: 2009-01-27 Location: Vancouver Wa Posts: 1,169 Trader Score: 2 (100%)
Originally Posted by cory Ultra grey Ftmfw!
Originally Posted by SR20? What he said ^^^
nothing better IMO
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1991 NX2000 SR20DEEP PNW
"You have to wonder what kind of attention defecit disorder someone has to have to need a roller coaster at the fucking Nurburgring." Dave Coleman
most of the time i use ultra grey, but i've got bad luck with it on the lower oil pans. i used ultra black when i did my transmission, absolutely not a drops been lost, so i might try that on the lower pan next time.
I did my oil pan 3 times. 2 times I did with red, 3rd time I did with black. All times it leaked like a SOB. I think it has a lot to do with how well you clean the pan and block and how long you let it cure before you put oil in it. The last time I was in the process of my motor build so I did my oil pan on the engine stand with grey and let it cure for days before I got the motor in and started. Its been like 4 months with not a drop on the ground.
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If NISMO stands for Nissan Motorsports, does HOMO stand for Honda Motorsports?
If your cleaning and resealing your pans and their leaking over and over again the problem is you or your technique. Not the color or brand of the sealant or rtv...
Join Date: 2008-03-07 Location: new jersey Posts: 782 Trader Score: 6 (100%)
Originally Posted by SR20? I did my oil pan 3 times. 2 times I did with red, 3rd time I did with black. All times it leaked like a SOB. I think it has a lot to do with how well you clean the pan and block and how long you let it cure before you put oil in it. The last time I was in the process of my motor build so I did my oil pan on the engine stand with grey and let it cure for days before I got the motor in and started. Its been like 4 months with not a drop on the ground.
you have to read the directions on rtv ..you must apply grey ..let it sit for 15min ..then tighten the bolts...do not use red! the harmonics of the motor breaks it apart ...so they developed black and grey for Japanese motors..due to the harmonics 4 cylinders create
Good surface prep, making sure the lower pan where it meets the upper is not bent and if so straighten it out by placing it on a flat surface and taking a rubber mallet to it. Cleaned of all material.
Apply a nice bead of either grey or ultra black (I prefer Ultra Black) and let it tack up for about 10-15 minutes and then put it up. And definitely give it 24 hours or more before putting oil in. Never had any issues doing it this way. Simple as that.
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1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R - Fully Built SR20VE, BWS400SX Billet 67mm and much more
JMS Racing tuned to 716whp, 423wtq at 29psi
10.5 @ 149.2mph to date I believe the fastest trap speed SE-R, Much more to come with some changes!
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty RIGHT STUFF SUCKS!!!!
My buddy was tellin me his co-worker reccomended that stuff to him one time, an when we used it on his altima it didn't work very well, oil leaks galore! needless to say we had to redo with with good ol' permatex!
you haven't used it right then...shit is amazing. It's like any silicone though you have to have a clean surface to start with. I use a scotchbrite pad to get all the old silicone off and brake cleaner on a rag to wipe any oil residue off. None of that 15 minute bs either. Put the pan on and fill it up with oil, there's a reason why it's so $$.