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Thread: Turbo NX Over heating

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Posts: 11-20 of 32
2012-07-06 15:29:41
#11
how are you sure that replacing the HG was done correctly? it sounds to me that pressure is passing your CC and getting into your cooling system... did you check if the head and block surface is flat?

what kind of psi is the rad cap?
2012-07-06 15:30:42
#12
Originally Posted by gomba
Originally Posted by DavidGti-r
Originally Posted by gomba
Did you keep A/C? Is the condenser still there? How about heat wrapping pipes and/or using the stock heat shields?

Just from looking at the front of the NX, it seems it wasn't designed very well for airflow to the radiator. There's no real opening for air to enter the radiator except under the bumper from what I remember. I know there are some guys who will drill large holes into the front grill to help with cooling the radiator down. I would assume that makes a pretty decent difference. Perhaps you could also invest in a larger radiator which will also help. Other than that, general things like making sure the air is bled from the cooling system I'd suggest.

-G


I have stock radiator i love my A/C so yes i do not have stock heat shields on the turbo

does it overheat even w/AC off?


Yes, if AC is on over heats way faster.
2012-07-06 15:42:42
#13
This won't solve your problem, but it'll help until you figure it out. You can activate both fans by grounding the fan signal at the ecu (pin 9 on most B13's) with a simple toggle switch. I use a spare emergency flasher switch in place of the blanking plate to do this on my SE-R, and it works like a charm.

C
2012-07-06 15:53:10
#14
Originally Posted by Chriscar
This won't solve your problem, but it'll help until you figure it out. You can activate both fans by grounding the fan signal at the ecu (pin 9 on most B13's) with a simple toggle switch. I use a spare emergency flasher switch in place of the blanking plate to do this on my SE-R, and it works like a charm.

C


This is a good idea for now, so your saying splice into pin 9 and run the to one end of toggle then the other end of the toggle to ground?
2012-07-06 15:55:48
#15
Yes, just T into it, and ground the other side of the switch. You said you still have AC in the car, right? I bet if you disconnect the clutch signal wire at the compressor, both your fans will come on when you hit the AC button, and I think you have to have the blower fan at 1 or higher.

C
2012-07-06 16:30:49
#16
Originally Posted by Chriscar
This won't solve your problem, but it'll help until you figure it out. You can activate both fans by grounding the fan signal at the ecu (pin 9 on most B13's) with a simple toggle switch. I use a spare emergency flasher switch in place of the blanking plate to do this on my SE-R, and it works like a charm.

C


This is a good idea for now, so your saying splice into pin 9 and run that to one end of toggle then the other end of the toggle to ground?
Last edited by DavidGti-r on 2012-07-06 at 16-31-15.
2012-07-06 21:28:19
#17
what temp degrees f, is considered overheating?
2012-07-06 22:09:37
#18
Run it without a tstat and u should def not over heat, also see if there's air in the system also did u use premix coolant or concentrated
2012-07-06 22:21:22
#19
Originally Posted by Forced
what temp degrees f, is considered overheating?


I can't recall the exact number when i used the thermo gun thing but boiling reservoir is considered overheating in my book.
2012-07-06 22:22:33
#20
Originally Posted by liljay781
Run it without a tstat and u should def not over heat, also see if there's air in the system also did u use premix coolant or concentrated


concentrated added 50% water
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