Thread: N1 vs 20V blog, ate TB screw, fixed... i think.

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2012-04-26 03:26:13

#11

Keo

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how much of a a/f change(if any) with the cam swap?

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2012-04-26 03:27:03

#12

boomstickracing Online/offline status of boomstickracing is unknown

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adding to the info library!
good stuff here!

thanks for basicly going outa your way to do this comparo and sharing with us!

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2012-04-26 03:41:28

#13

Coheed

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Originally Posted by Keo

how much of a a/f change(if any) with the cam swap?

Well, I wish I had AFR on these. But the wideband wasn't working. New one was supposed to show up today in time for the dyno, but it never showed.

The boost controller had its hands full with the N1. When the cams switched boost quickly spiked before the boost controller got ahold of itself. I'm gonna drive it and get some video, then give you my feedback on driveability.

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2012-04-26 03:42:35

#14

revvl-r

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what rpm did you activate lift for the n1 cams and the 20v cams coheed

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2012-04-26 03:44:54

#15

ashtonsser Online/offline status of ashtonsser is unknown

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Looks like Vadim isnt getting his n1 cams back.

hahaha

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2012-04-26 04:15:20

#16

Coheed

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Lift on all cams was activated at 4500 I/E.

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2012-04-26 04:43:21

#17

STRATTON

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Originally Posted by Coheed

Cam comparison 20V vs N1 "drop-in" results.
The Test: Drop in comparison between N1 and 20V cams.
The Dyno: Dynojet 248C upgraded to 2000whp capability.
Date: ‎4/‎25/‎2012
The Car: Coheed's Super Sentra

The Setup: 8.5:1 compression, tubular long runner manifold, Supertech springs and retainers, JWT computer, Stock head/intake manifold, Precision 6262 bb. And supporting mods.

Special Thanks to Vadim for making this test possible. Without his trust and temporary donation of N1 cams this test would not have been possible. big thanks to Fast-Times dyno services. JC allowed me to swap cams on the dyno to get the most accurate back-to-back results.

Runs were done 20V low, 20V high. Then N1 low, N1 high, then N1 low again. Due to some boost irregularity and some dyno mishaps, the N1 low had mixed results.

Dyno comparisons were done starting at 2000 rpm for low boost. Boost controller was set to its lowest settings. The boost did fluctuate slightly between runs, it was something out of my control. But runs were around 1-2psi of each other.
Here is the low boost runs: Blue is 20V, red is N1.

Results: The 20V cams performed amazingly well on low-boost of 11psi. 365whp compared to the N1 at 342whp. This is a difference of 23whp. For some reason, the N1 cams consistently under-performed to the 20V cams. Though boost was slightly lower by ~1psi, and there was some issues on the dyno, the 20V without a doubt made more power on low boost.
What couldn't be forseen however, is the bottom end power delivery. The N1 in every run produced more power on the bottom end, in various areas. I would like to do more testing with the N1 on low boost to see if I can get it to make what the 20V made. The issues on the dyno meant the N1 low boost had to happen after high boost pulls to get an accurate reading. However, this may have cause some slight heat soaking. More testing will be required on low-boost runs. I encourage others to post their results.

High boost runs are when things get really entertaining: Blue is 20V, red is N1.

The N1 cams outperformed the 20V here, generating 516whp on only 19psi boost on N1 and 491whp on 20V. A difference of 25whp. The N1 also didn't lose any bottom end to the 20V cams. There was a dip in power delivery on the N1 coming on boost. The power onslaught was so severe, boost went to 24psi momentarily before dropping back to 19psi. This caused a bit of spark blow-out. This was remedied by closing the gap and following up with another pull and it made 505whp. There was some heat-soaking going on for sure, but pull after pull the N1 made over 500whp on 19psi.

I encourage anyone else pursuing this kind of cam swap to do a comparison as well. The N1 cams don't seem to have any negative effects, if you can deal with less power on low boost. The N1 can switch ealier and start making power faster. The cams are extremely quiet on low, but scream like a banshee on high. They get 3x louder, they are flat out abnoxious.

Feel free to discuss. There are variables at play here, but it is what it is.

fucking awesome man. let me first start off by saying great numbers. is this the highest whp youve done so far 516 ? thats a fucking serious ammount of power. must shred tires at that level.

great thorough tests, back to back pulls you showed what n1s can do.

im guessing you left the n1's in ??

stratton.

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if ruled the world and everything in it, skys the limit id push the q 4 5 infinit....

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2012-04-26 05:00:58

#18

kevwal

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Nice test. I would like to see the difference with the non- N1 sr16s in the mix but this is good info. I was thinking about switching out my SR16s for some 20Vs but with a similar setup to yours I made over 500 with them at 19psi also so I might just stick to what I have.

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2012-04-26 05:26:05

#19

Coheed

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You probably could do a few tweaks to any of these cams and make great power. I just wanted to see drop-in results.

I left the N1 cams in there. I need to replace the valve cover gasket and drive the thing with the N1 in there. Depending on how it drives i may buy a set of N1 or stick to 20V cams.

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2012-04-26 05:32:09

#20

Coheed

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I wonder if the N1 would perform better if they weren't heat-soaked on the run. Man I really want to see what a nice cold-run would do. but damnit if I would have had more time. Grrrr.

Still, at 365whp on only 11psi with the 20V cams, I was stoked. That is awesome power for such low boost.

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