Thread: My First Short Block Rebuild

i have tried to do research but answers are sometimes hard to come by and when i do find them i am often left wondering if it is just some fool opinion so i am asking here.

I bought the car to learn and have a friend to help but i have to do all the research and he is there to help wrench. i looked into a new det but i think thats out for now.

as the title states i am rebuilding my first engine. it is a jdm bb det redtop. codes 78E on the block, 53J 5R on the head.

i just want to break ~220 hp for now and maybe 300 in the future if i can get the cash for a t28 some bigger injectors etc later

i am most likely going to 86.5mm maybe 87
forged pistons, and bearings most likely from G spec link from this forum
ARE STOCK DET RODS REUSABLE/RELIABLE or should i just spend the $300 on new ones if i do WHAT LENGTH?
a cosworth head gasket WHAT THICKNESS DO I NEED?
SHOULD I HAVE MY CRANK RESURFACED or buy another? i cant even feel any imperfection on the crank on the knocking rod. i am hopin to be able to have it resurfaced as a new one looks like it will break the bank
OEM HEAD BOLTS? sound like they should work just fine for me

is there a good thread with DET stock PART NUMBERS?

THANKS the wife is buggin me a little about when ill be done already so i gotta get parts order so i can start the rebuild.

Matt

if your planning to stay under 400hp, almost everything stock off that engine should be good enough. I wouldn't use forged pistons unless I'm planning to run 400+ alot.

I'd run the everything stock except I'd use the VVL headgasket.

everything should be up to par for a T28 and even a GT28RS.

But this is my .02, some may say different.

i meant to ask what i would NEED to replace to hit 300 or if oem would do.

the reason i am gonna do the forged pistons is because i am gonna have to bore(i think) and if i do that i havent heard good things about any 87mm pistons that cost less than the forged aluminum(what is it 300z non turbo pistons? i have read boost eats these alive)

VVL HG will fit? i am a newb and not afraid to admit it


my biggest concern is if the crank will work or not. the rest is easily within my budget

is there any difference between fwd and rwd DET rods/pistons? it seems rwd are very easy to come by but fwd are a different story. is it something with the valve relief?

my block is almost completely tore down. just gotta remove the crank, rods, pistons etc which will happen tonight. so i wanna be able to order what i need soon

Wel the DET block comes with +/- 200 - 220 HP and yes stock OEM internals can handle around 300 - 350 HP (its proven many times)

if you have to bore then go with forged. otherwise its going to be a waste of money you could have spend on something else.

I searched on the FWD vs RWD rods a whiiiile ago and can't remember if they are the same now.

Hey take some pics....a nice little writeup would be cool...

same, and i was using rwd pistons in my old set up too

yeah rods are the same, and no need to change them and get new ones. the oem head bolts will be fine also, if your going to bore your definetly going to need a good gasket and the cosworth seems to be the best design out there by far. Expensive but reliable and worth the money. Get the bearings and pistons from Greg, awsome guy to deal with. Crank should be fine but if you have the money and your going to have the motor completly apart you might as well spend the money on at least having it polished and miced for roundness and specs to make sure your oil clearances for your bearings are still fine. Might as well do it right if your going all the way with it. If it was still in the car and your changing bearings i would say dont worry about having it checked if it looks like its good to go. It shouldnt cost you any more than 100 bucks to have a machine shop just polish up the journals and check the specs and roundness for ya.

Good luck with the build, they really are not that hard to do at all. Just take your time.

yeh definately nothing hard except dealing with the local part stores that never stock anything foreighn or useful. i was planning on a crank journal polish and a cylinder hone(if not an over bore) from the begining since the entire rod bearing on 4 was in the oil pan probably gonna just replace all 4 pistons cause the oem ones are cheap and 4 has some scoring on it but the cylinder is amazingly smooth and clean(i dont have to bore), and 4 has a nic on one side of the cylinder head where it hit the head i think but there is no sign on the head or valves.

so all in all i will be in for 4 pistons, rings, main and rod bearings, machine work, and all the gaskets. all of which should come in under 600 which is way below the cost of a new engine which might need half this anyway.