Originally Posted by ashtonsser 
Yes, I plan on running a dual backdoor but the way the intercooler is designed it curves into the core fairly smoothly.
Thing with the dual backdoor intercooler is that it shortens my piping by literally about 6 feet and removes about 5 90 deg bends in the piping so its a trade-off but honestly if you think of how compressed air work it really doesnt matter much how the piping or intercooler is, Its going to pressurize and flow through every given area of the piping, endtanks, and intercooler core. Your not going to have more airflow over one section than another during boost, at least not enought to matter.
What mainly matters on an intercooler is its cooling ability and thats really all there is to it. Most w2a intercoolers are fairly small cores but have very large cooling abilities because water can gather and remove heat better than air not to mention the ability to cool below ambient.
There is some good pics on honda-tech going over intercoolers, ebay vs greddy vs garrett vs precision and so on giving core pictures and some real life numbers with them. Its already proven the garrett cores are by far the best cores out there nothing else even coming close to competing and its clear in the design as to why.
Once i see how my massive ebay intercooler does and if it proves to be a problem at the power level im shooting for then ill be moving to a 5" thick 12" tall 24" wide garrett core and do custom backdoor endtanks.
This whole arguement of vertical vs horizontal is pointless. Id say pick the one that best works with your setup to make the piping as short as possible and not have any clearance issues. As for performance, its negligable at most everyone here's power levels.
I agree that the change in power is small but all the small things add up. And I think what you mean about the intercoolers "cooling ability" being most important is it's efficiency. If an intercooler is only cooling a pin hole sized tube to -30 and bottle-necking all the air going through it to 1% of what the turbo can push, that -30 is going to do any good.
The big problem about having lots of bends is each 45* bend drops the pressure like 3%. So the boost at the start of the turbo system will x% higher than what the intake is seeing, this is pressure drop. Then every time you shift or your boost drops the turbo takes longer to spool back up, it injects x amount higher temps into the intake, and it works the turbo harder. That all adds up more the more power the car is making. It could mean the difference between a car that is knocking and one that's not. If you are going up and down your gears a lot it could mean car lengths and so on....
Last edited by jere
on 2012-03-26
at 07-17-14.
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We have used these in the past on budget builds and they work very well, performance/$ ratio is pretty good. Also, avoid dual pass if you can, pressure drops are greater with that design and sealing the inlet/outlet can be tricky.
i'll probably add a nub for the jack in the future.
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