Thread: Who is good with the AEM tru-boost?

My brother let me take his car out last night and I couldn't figure the shit out. Everyone says the Tru-Boost is user friendly but maybe I'm a moron. I loved my MBC's lol. Anyways, it seems like if I would set the boost to say 1 bar, it would work for a bit. I'll turn off the car and chill out. Lined up for a run and next thing I know the shit is flashing at me and hit 28psi. Ashton, can you do me a favor and do a quick reply on how to wire up and do this shit, lol. I remember you loved it. I am trying to take the car out tonight but definitely do not wanna lift the head just yet.

I kinda miss boost. If my brother didn't have a turbo car I would have to build another street toy, lol.

anybody??

It should automatically save once you set the duty cycle and cycle it back to the RUN state. You have two duty cycle settings A and B once you set them make sure it saves by I believe pressing the two buttons down together a couple times till it goes back to the RUN state and it should go back to the main screen showing boost readings.

Also the numbers your setting on it are duty cycle % not actual target boost levels.

You also should set your wastegate spring crack pressure. Basicly whatever psi wastegate spring is in there. That way the boost controller doesnt even start doing anything until it sees that psi.

Here is the pdf instructions on how to use it and set it up. And yes i loved it. It was super consistent, never spiked, and once you get used to what duty cycle equals over wastegate pressure its very easy to program desired boost levels.

http://tunertools.com/prodimages/AEM/manual/10-4350_for_Tru_Boost_30-4350.pdf

have fun once you get used to it, its very easy to use, can record your high boost hit every key cycle and so on. It the easiest electronic boost controller ive ever used and looks nicer than the big honkin greddy or any other unit.

Also, make sure your fittings are in the right spot on the AEM solenoid, if you have them wrong you boost will just skyrocket. It shows the two configurations on how they are supposed to be set up so that when off it runs wastegate pressure. I did that the first tim i hooked mine up and hello 30+psi and tire shredding madness.

haha if you havent had this happen when setting up a boost controller your not having fun

Yeah it happened on the 220k mile DE that I threw in before I put my built motor in. I didnt really care so I left it like that because I was just seeing how much it would take to blow up a 220k mile, beat to hell, ran out of oil DE. Well it survived about 11-12 runs from 50 to 140+mph before if finally spun the #3 rod bearing. The truboost would only read up to 29.9psi and it was maxed out every time i would get on it. It was basicly hooked up like I had the vac line disconnected from the wastegate and blocked off. Who knows what it was actually hitting.

All I know is it scared the crap out of my buddies that rode in the car with me as it was just sitting on the 8k rev limiter every gear and even 5th was spinning. Fun stuff. But when I tore that motor apart it was only a matter of time before something broke as all 4 rod bearings had extensive wear on them. Tried to put a new set of bearings on the #3 and it ended up throwing the rod out the block the very next pull. Pistons and cylinder walls looked great. It had to have been making 500+whp judging by how it felt compared to the numbers i put down with the built motor.

I hated mine. I dislike the feature where i had to hold down the button to go from stock to a then to b. Especially with fat fingers, it was a pita.

LOL, thats about as easy as it gets to switch boost settings. Much easier to use and set than any other unit out there.

Sucks that i had to hold it down for two seconds to switch settings. In the middle of a run i would either hold it too long or notlong enough. Pretty nice controller but that is my only gripe.

i ran a first gen profec b.

shit was tits.

stratton.