Thread: Break in oil and procedures?

I have a fairly built W10 DET. Just finished the motor not long ago and it will probably be going in the car in a couple days. I'm just curious what you guys use to break your motors in? Also, is it safe to start the motor without it being on a dyno and someone tuning it? I'll be running the stock t25, 370cc inj, n60 maf, calum RT just for break in. Here is what's done to the motor:

JE pistons
Eagle rods
ACL race bearings rod main thrust
arp head and main studs
BC stg 3 cams
BC SS valves
BC springs and retainers
Port and polished DET head

One more thing, what would the motor safely be able to rev to? And how the hell do I go beyond 7800 RPM safely with a Calum ECU?

iirc any dino oil with alot of zinc. this helps seat the rings. couple miles with dino then switch to synthetic after the tune.

stratton.

Ever heard about this? Looks like the correct stuff to use in your case.

stick the wastegate open and drive n/a for a while...or just don't plumb the i/c piping.

wow that's extreme. It's like going cold turkey on heroin lol. I'd guess people could control themselves? If not, I guess this is a good idea.

-G

I've been using either Penn 1 Grade High Performance oil or Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil, both 10W30. They have high-zinc content which is exactly what your motor needs to have and are fully synthetic, so they'll do their job better than conventional oil. Yes, you'll be paying a hefty price, but I must say, they're worth every damn penny.

Avoid all other manufacturers as they do not use the ingredients that a performance motor needs, especially when you'll be subjecting it to lots of WOT. Lastly, go with the OEM oil filter as its better than anything else in the aftermarket.

^^^Oem? The last one I got from the dealer said "made in china", and I haven't bought one since. They are made by fram from what I've read. I use purolator gold from advance. The VR1 is topps though.

Really? I didn't really notice that with the SE-R filters. I am going to have to check on this now that you've mentioned it. With regards to my EVO I know that Mitsubishi hasn't messed around with the filters (just did an oil change a day ago). I wonder why Nissan would make make a weird move like that, unless of course Fram meets OEM quality requirements. Maybe the Fram-made oil filters sold by Nissan are better than what you get at Autozone?

I went with (shells) ROtELA T 15-30 great for break in...A bit pricey but who cares after spending all that money on a build it should of been in the budget from day one..
Good Luck!

Is it true that if I run a high zinc break in oil I need to use that same oil on every oil change? I've heard a few people say just use a break in additive with a conventional oil, then switch to full synthetic after 500 miles. That Redline stuff looks pretty fancy.