Thread: Break in oil and procedures?

Looks like the Valvoline VR1 racing oil isn't really mean't for break in. What if got the valvoline VR1 conventional and put a break in additive in that? Then after 500 miles just switch to Valvoline VR1 racing oil.

Hey, how do you go about doing that?

Also the chevron diesel oil is high in ZDDP... and its cheap

I changed the rotella every 500 miles for 2k miles then put Royal Purple
XPR 5w-30.
in my stock SR lsd trans I use royal purple gear oil 75w/90..I just changed the Bell housing out due to it cracking from 4 yrs of abuse,checked the stacks and they still look brand new after daily driving and over 500 passes over a 4yr period.yep this trans has been in three different projects and its still kicking. sorry to go of topic but thought I throw that in there to help you out and save your tranny as well..

No. Where do you hear stuff like this from? Go with the right stuff from the get go. There is no need to go with conventional oil first and then switch to synthetic. You can switch between the two back and forth however many times you want to. It doesn't really matter. What matters is the ingredients in the oil, which is why I specifically mentioned Brad Penn or Valvoline VR1. Go with either and forget about it. If you're really worried about break-in, use conventional 10W30 oil for 500 miles and then switch over to the aforementioned brands. Personally I don't care for break-in period, because if the motor has to go kaput, it'll do so at any time. The break-in period does nothing to prevent it.

High load (revving the motor out when driving) either N/A or boosted to seat the rings. If you baby it, you'll never get what you expect from the car.

If you/they/whoever built the motor right (with proper assembly lube) and checked for proper clearances/tolerances, you'll never have an issue.

I don't believe in dino/syn oil swapping/etc. Start her up, take her down the street for about 5 minutes revving out (shift close to redline, even if you're not flooring the gas pedal), and done.

PS- free spooling the turbo is bad. Don't "keep the wastegate open" or leave intercooler piping disconnected. Overspool is highly possible which will lead to issues with CHRA.

PS - Turbo cars in general love Rotella T6. I'm a huge fan now.

My teacher and I built the motor together. He is a master tech, and also has a few certifications in engine machining. He runs an engine machine shop that he owns called CMV Performance and has probably built more race motors than I have seen. He told me that a full synthetic will not properly break in a motor because the oil is too slick and doesn't allow enough friction. He said do not mix and match oils, like valvoline and castrol, because they may use different additives and if they mix it could cause sludge build up. Basically he has told me that if I plan to run Mobil 1 EP all the time (which I do intend to) then I need to stick to Mobil 1. Like break in with a Mobil conventional oil and high zinc additive, then I can switch to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic EP. Seems like everybody has their own opinion on this.

Quote from http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/full-synthetic-motor-oil/:




Read more on that link if you'd like.

Link doesn't work

The first filter I bought from the dealer was that way. All of their new filters are made in china now. I didn't notice until I got home though so I just went to advance, and bought a purolator gold. Only $6 and change.

[/QUOTE]I wonder why Nissan would make make a weird move like that, unless of course Fram meets OEM quality requirements. Maybe the Fram-made oil filters sold by Nissan are better than what you get at Autozone? [/QUOTE]

I really couldn't say. Nissan has been getting cheaper, and outsourcing more over the years. If they meet OEM spec, then it must be pretty low now. I doubt their filters are different from any other fram. There was a thread a while back about what are in filters. Someone cut a few open. There is still some old stock OEM floating around possibly?




Most seem to like one or the other. That's just how we are, lol. Mobil 1 is real good, but VR1 is much better. I convinced a friend to switch to VR1 syn from Mobil 1 syn, and he hasn't looked back. He felt more power, and better response from his Aveiner. It has high ZDDP, and lower detergents, which make it slicker. The lower the resistance on your friction surfaces equals less HP robbed.