Thread: electric water pump ?

hey is there any pros & cons to blocking off your manual pump and going electric is the flow of the water the same even though the pumps are in different positions

Position has nothing to do with the flow.

Waste of money and time for the electric water pump

you have to drill out or leave out your thermostat. Recently just had one go bad on me because the seals went out and got the bearings wet and ruined it. $100 for the kit to rebuild it.

Have to agree with miko on this one.

Have you ever seen or done any before and after tests? I'm curious how much power we could really free up.. id assume 2-3whp?

Yes I have. Had a Meisner Electric Water Pump on my 20V for 6 years. Load by electric water pump kills it. The laod by the water pump makes the alternator spin harder.

Waste of time and money.

That would be without digital voltage PW-controller though correct?

A controller like the Davis (I think it is) makes up for the loss of the T-stat and reduces voltage required to operate the pump in general driving situations. With high engine temp situations then the alternator takes a hit.

There is also the issue of cavitation, that is taken care of with the E-water pump.

As far as hp concerns its not really about that. Like miko said the 2-3 whp you might see from getting rid of the water pump will be taken up by extra load on the alternator.

The biggest benifit is the cooling factor. Ive put my Mezier pump to the test and I can tell you it owns any belt driven water pump by far. I run mine with no t-stat and pump and flexalite 1250 cfm fan on at all times with a civic half width 3 core radiator and the highest temp ive ever seen on my motor was 185 deg and that was on a hot 100 deg day in a shop dynoing run after run after run non stop. Lower hose still felt just warm to the touch and upper hose was not very hot either. Normal driving around town i see about 155-165 deg temps. I daily drove the car in the summer time 125 deg ambient temps, stop and go, with my 60 trim turbo setup and highest temp i saw was 181 deg. No issues at all ever with it. The cooling benifits far outweight the hp factor since there really is none.

I love my electric water pump. Cleans up the motor a lot and looks clean and keeps my engine temp down which under 20+psi on pump gas daily is a good thing to help keep detonation away and it did. Never any issues with overheating, detonation, or any of that.

14k miles on the motor and when I tore it down the internals still looked perfect. Some may say engine not getting up to full temp is bad and blah blah blah but if built correctly you wont see any of signs of that. At least I didnt on my motor.

Electric definitely has it's benefits. I have a meziere on my b13 along with a surge tank setup and can fill, drain (quickly), or purge the cooling system without having the engine running. Also, I can run the electric rad. fan and water pump with the engine hot and off, which cools down the motor and turbo(water cooled) pretty quickly. You can also choose different pump sizes/impellers/flow rates when you run electric and have more freedom for remote mounting and plumbing. The belt driven pump is one size fits all and is driven by engine speed and pulley size.

thanks for the info so far guys still thinking if i should get one as in my country temps are high with the normal belt driven pump a few pulls on the dyno or road and my temps go 192 to 200 sometimes and am running a b14 double core rad and to 1250cfm pusher fans

any SR20DE car temps will go up to 210 degrees before the fans cut on. If you let your car sit and idle it will get to 210 degrees. 195-210 degrees is normal operating temps.