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Thread: Issues idling and now just stalling.

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Posts: 1-9 of 9
2011-10-30 18:26:20
#1
Issues idling and now just stalling.
So my cars been on the road for like 300 miles now and they have been pretty trouble free with the exception of one thing..

The idle!

Cold idle spot on at like 1500 or so steady, Once it warms up it does a little song and dance 1000 / 2000 / 1000 / 2000

I thought maybe vacuum but im pulling 20 in hg which should be perfect.

Now today it started sputtering a little and now it wont idle.. When sputtering its reading 10-8 on the wideband which is RICH...

Not sure if its my MAF or what Im at work now and no access to my laptop to scan for codes, its basically un drivable as it sits... This just came out of the blue, Was running perfect, If I rev it it revs smooth.

Any ideas off hand would be great as I have to make it home.

Car info that may help :

  • ECU - Calum Basic
  • MAF - N62 ( blow thru )
  • BOV - Greddy Type S ( venting to atmosphere )
Last edited by QUiKSR20 on 2011-10-30 at 18-30-13.
2011-10-30 19:57:49
#2
ECT??
2011-10-30 20:05:29
#3
Check for leaks with a pressure tester.
2011-10-30 21:22:28
#4
Would of done a ton of testing before posting but was stuck at work.. Will keep all posted this was just to see if there was any dumb things I was missing.. Think I found a vacuum leak, keep you guys posted..
2011-10-30 21:59:04
#5
U had the same problem I had I dtlt with all year.idle surging can be a numerous amount Of issues.Myn was tortured vac lines dirty egr clogged cat and shot iacv.after I acv was replaced the surging went away along with the stalling..depending. On condition of motor.faulty water pump aswell as blown headgasket.clean iacv and see what happens.if it goes away tor a while and. Comes back u kno it took a shit.Cel will not go on for this issue
2011-10-30 22:29:45
#6
Im leaning towards IACV possibly... Sometimes idle will just jump down to like 1000rpm and be perfect almost like someones flipping a switch
then it will go back to hunting... ( only when warm )

Def not a clogged cat / bad water pump etc as car was just put together with all new parts. Nothing was skimped on all new seals sensors etc etc...

Also going to get a fuel pump and FPR cause also noticed my fuel pressure isnt staying 100%.. First 200 miles on the road my car would be at 12-12.5 AFR
on WOT and now if I get into boost its at 14 ( not safe ) so I stopped getting on it and parked it until I can grab a pump and FPR.

Prob grab pump + FPR next week and go from there. If that doesnt do it IACV ( which it also seems like ) Cold it idles perfect.
2011-10-30 22:39:47
#7
If u put it together new then I would lean to the iacv.I replaced vac lines cleaned egr and gutted the cat before I change the iacv.after all that.it would hunt j stall only wen its warm.would start right up tho if stalledBefre I gutted the cat it would take 15 min to start with pumping g gas
2011-10-31 00:16:56
#8
deff check the pump and and fpr. and take a look at ur bin and see where the maf enrichment trigger is set for. and check your maf voltage.

for the idle issue you may have the trigger set too high which most bins are but alot of us don't have mafs that are in great enough condition to read that high at idle. (hence y you have been burning bins for me lol). which causes a dumb rich condition. jwt puts these value at 0.0 the bins i have u burning for me are at .90 and most stock and/or calum bins are 1.0. and lean under boost and w.o.t. sounds like fuel pump at least. and i never thought about fpr condition till the ve i have now, which didin't have greatest condition fpr orignally. it was outer spec per fsm. i changed it to another and now the fpr is on the low side of the spec so i think i still may need to get a pump sooner or later.
2011-10-31 04:20:53
#9
Gotcha, Yeah gonna grab a walbro 255 + an FPR this week. And then look into IACV next.... First week on the original pump was good and then it got worse as I think the stock pump is on its way out after being pushed a little.
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