Thread: SR20DE Strong 300whp Turbo Set Up ??

Main reason is yes lending my car, be it a friend or my wife, I don't want them to accidentally forget and ruin it.

But reading about it it seems like you have to be really driving it hard to do major damage. Thus I'm starting to warm up to it.

woohooo, breaking the noob seal!

This is the setup I want to go with. I only want about 350-400 whp and look relatively stock, I believe this could get me there. What keeps me away is transmission busting torque.

lol and now i have the Gtir external gated mani.. muahahahahah!

You run blow through, but you don't vent the valve cover to the piping. You just plug that port on the VC and use the oil separator portion (or get an aftermarket one). DO NOT VENT IT OPEN! That is just bad!

Brent

i beat the living piss out of my 18g setup and the motor/tranny will go before the turbo goes.

Damn now everyone will be getting 18gs

Vadim- I hope your wife can handle a high power fwd turbo beast. A stock VE with an 18g should be 350-400whp safely without pushing it too fat. I would just buy a 500 buck up Geo Prizm or whatever I could get from a little old lady that ran for under 800 bucks. Now if your wife can drive, more props to her. Thing is I always like to keep a beater around just so I have something that I can drive and not give a shit about. Whoops, hit a shopping cart....oh well. Ran into a snow bank..... Sideways, how the hell did that happen? Well maybe I know lol.... Nudged my friend through the crosswalk (with no pedestrians of course), lol. It is just nice not to worry about scratches, nicks and dents. Now the beater with a small t25 makes an awesome beater for 2-2500 bucks total and is a total blast.

It's good it's not like it would really fit for me with Koyo and Spal's.



I would get a VE valve cover that way you don't have a catch can to worry about. But I highly suggest hooking up the blow by vents to the turbo intake like Nissan does OEM, blow through or draw through. The amount of overpressure I saw with it not properly hooked up was crazy (my whole engine bay was covered in oil from one of the seals leaking )



Now you can say, I had an 18g before it was the cool thing to do



My wife drives a P11 too, it's a 5 speed 2000 too. She can drive manual better then some of my guy friends. She manages to get 24mpg out of that thing in the city . But if something happens to her car I need her to be able to drive my car or if something happens to me. Couple months back I got stung by a wasp, am apparently allergic to them, so she had to drive my turbo car.

I do like the idea of having a very cheap beater car, I'm tempted to get a $500 SE-R and gut it to be below 2k lbs. Then use that as a fun car . But I think a pickup will be coming before I get a beater car...

i used an avenir manifold with mine, i i had to grind the block it takes maybe 1 mins of grinding with an right angle grinder. if you use a gtir manifold i suppose you wouldn't have to do so. i already spent the money to go external gate with the avenir manifold so i had no choice but to make it work, where you grind the block does nothing to the structural integrity if i find a picture of the front of hte block without the turbo ill show you exactly where and how to grind if you use the avenir manifold

Oh I'm not worried about block grinding, I care more about the better CFM of the GTiR first, then grinding second.

I might have to weld my own external gate onto the GTiR manifold, cast iron is just a royal pain to weld.