Thread: SR20DE Strong 300whp Turbo Set Up ??

so my stock tranny will hold up to 400whp if i just put some valvoline 85w140?? cause my car drives and feels pretty smooth honestly im going to shoot for 400whp i was thinking on starting on a 300whp but now that i know i can push my engine / tranny to the limit im goin to shoot for it ..

Dang whats ur set up man ?

It should hold up a lot longer for sure than if you wernt using the Valvoline oil. Again its always good to start lower and work your way up

You start getting up in the 400whp range it becomes a lot to handle and get used to. 400whp fwd street cars are plenty and will roast the tires 1st-3rd gear in pretty much any situation.

Start lower and work you way up. The Valvoline is helpful at making the trans last much longer.

I agree work your way up.

Im running Ashtons recommendation and it can be stiff when cold out 30-40s but after one block of driving its perfect and feels awesome..
Its great piece of mind with our fragile transmissions. Anything over 300HP FWD is a handfull. Hell Im on a T25 on 9lbs and first gear is
useless atleast with the 205s im running. Will try drag radials and get a new alignment...

Dang evey day that i check this thread i get to learn something .. at first i was scared to start this thread , but now that i actually get to learn more and more everyday i feel that was the best idea .. thnks to all of uu guys .. and keep the ideas coming.. so im talking to a guy to purchase my kit already hopefully by the end of this week get my manifols, turbo and dowpipe .. on saturday ill be going to california on a family trip and i contact a gy that he is selling an intercooler and pipping for a b14 .. im still searching for fuel pump and injectors .. but even if i start on 300 whp can i use a bigger injectors the 550cc or 555cc ? ..

On boosted cars, run heavier oil period imvho. I run 85-140 on mine also as many other sofla guys down here. When I first got the fivespeed swap done on my g20 I was goi.g to buy the redline fluid. My brother told me f that, buy yourself 85-140gear oil and call it a day. 5years later I have only broken only transmission, I sheared the teeth of third. But I really abuse the trannies, I love digs.

The car's going great!

It recently made 453 WHP @ 22 psi in a 5th gear pull (spinning the tyres on the rollers in 4th).

This was the first time on the rollers since I installed the 4" system and custom intake, so I was quite happy with the results. The intake temps. were getting higher though so I'm in the process of making a new 6" intercooler core for next season.



Lots!

SR20DE+T Engine Conversion (8:1 comp. ratio)
53J Block
ARP Mains Studs
Roller Rocker Engine 4 Counterweight Crankshaft
96J High Port Cylinder Head (decked 1.2mm + ported & polished)
ARP Cylinder Head Studs
Cometic MLS Head Gasket
JE Custom Spec. Forged Pistons
JE Pro Seal Rings
Eagle ‘H’ Beam Conrods
A.R.P. Conrod Bolts
SR20DET Crank Girdle
‘92 eGT Sump & Sump Pan
VE Oil Pump
Modified VE Oil Pick-up
eGT Fuel Rail
DeatschWerks Fuel Injectors (Flow Rated at 830cc @ 3.5 BAR)
FSE Adjustable Fuel Regulator (3.5 BAR base pressure)
Walbro 255LPH High Pressure Internal Fuel Pump
Bosch -044 External Fuel Pump
NGK BCR 8ES Spark Plugs
A'PEXi Power FC
Modified Turbosmart Single Stage Boost Controller & Control Relay + Turbosmart Twin Stage Boost Controller (used in parrallel depending on gear selected)
Modified Z32 MAF
Custom Air Filter Housing
Twin Pipercross Air Filters
SFS Silicone Hosing
O2 Induction Intake Manifold
Modified VZR N1 Throttle Body (70mm)
Remote Idle Control Valve
Garrett GT307657R Hybrid Turbocharger (machine with GT40 comp' wheel)
Tial 44mm External Wastegate
2" Screamer Pipe
Modified Tubular Exhaust Manifold
Custom Turbo-back 4” Exhaust System
Powerflex Exhaust Mountings
AET Turbos FMIC
Stepped (2.25" - 3") IC Piping (HOT)
3" IC Piping (COLD)
Turbosmart Recirculating Valve
JWT S4 Camshafts (266 duration / 11.79 mm lift)
Ferrea Titanium Retainers
JWT HD Valve Springs
HKS Adjustable Camshaft Sprockets
Greddy Rocker Arm Stoppers
Remote Oil Catch Tank
Koyo Racing Radiator
NISMO 18.2 psi Radiator Cap
NISMO Thermostat
Kenlowe 13" Blower Cooling Fan
G-Spec Crankshaft Pulley
Unorthodox Racing Water Pump Pulley
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Engine Mounts
Custom 'Dogbone' Front Mount
Modified P11-144 Transmission (RS5F70A) with Cryo' Treated & Shot Peened Gears
NISMO 1.5 way LSD
ClutchMasters Flywheel
ClutchMasters 725 Series Twin Disc Clutch
Custom 300M Spec. Driveshafts
Modified B&M Short Shifter
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Transmission Mount

and how it looks just now...

Ok not to steal this topic, but something came up... i´m also trying to reach the 300bhp mark... and the gearbox is my main concern...

As everybody defends the 80w140 oil i went on a mission to find it, i eventually did (not easy were i live), and run in to a engineer that stated that i was "making a huge mistake" and that gl5 oils are not to be used on gl4 gearbox as it as twice the additives of gl4 and will corrode "yellow" metals, like the syncromesh and such...

I search the interwebs and alot of ppl state the same...

So do it or not? Maybe it´s a temporary fix, and on the long run will eat the "yellow" metals!

For how long are people using 80W140 gl5?

Over a period of maybe 10 years it might corrode the syncros a bit. But its not an instant thing. Its not like an acid that just eats away at them. Its just that, high additive content.

its 85w140 btw, Valvoline conventional in a white bottle with the white/blue/red valvoline label. I think you can get it in Synthetic or Synthetic Blend but the conventional is just fine.

Again yes over a long period of time and use, it "might" put some wear on the syncros. But again who cares really. If you have to replace a trans 10 years down the road or replace cyncros. Again not a big deal and they are making a bigger deal out of it than it really is.

Just use it, lol.