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Thread: Lynch's 6spd / VE-T thread

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Posts: 1,151-1,160 of 1,893
2012-08-07 05:07:04
#1151
Virtual Dyno Supported Formats:

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2012-08-07 05:07:58
#1152
i think im having issues with how my mafs wired up, vadim would shit if he saw this..
2012-08-07 16:45:25
#1153
Originally Posted by lynchfourtwenty
i think im having issues with how my mafs wired up, vadim would shit if he saw this..


Saw how badly it's wired? I can only assume
2012-08-07 16:49:20
#1154
n60/62 pigtail wires shoved in stock plug then wrapped in tape.. was meant to be a temp thing incase i wanted to revert back but since i never had issues (might not even be the problem still) i never messed wit it lol.
2012-08-10 02:58:12
#1155
Well I soldered my maf wires and ran a separate ground for one of the grounds on the n60/62 plug to the intake manifold but nothing changed, I can get my idle an cruise sorted and my boost transition but after 5300rpm it just dumps fuel, 10.3-10.6afr till red line.

sorry the pics are shit but my digi cam sucks more then my blackberry cam so I just used the blackberry cam.

First pic is how I had it ghetto rigged.



Here is the ground wire I ran to the intake mani, the discoloration is not bare wire showing, I think its the flux stuff. it whiped right off after the pic lol.



Heat shrinked.



Connected to the intake with one of them round connector things that I cant think of the name (eyelid?) and I soldered it a little after I crimped it down.



Its a bit hard to see, but I tried to use as little solder as possible to get the job done, I made sure it soaked into the wires and all that. I did my version of a western union joint, that way if the solder does come loose the wire cant just come apart.



Almost done.



I heat shrinked them all I taped them individually then I taped them all together.



I feel better inside knowing I tried my best and not half assed it like before, sadly its not working any better I even get the same voltages.
2012-08-10 03:07:53
#1156
Looks better.
Have you measured to see how much voltage is on the hot wire?
2012-08-10 03:17:23
#1157
I have not, would that be the 12v or the 5v one?
2012-08-10 03:38:23
#1158
It should be supplied 12, or at least thats how it was on my B13.
2012-08-10 03:39:00
#1159
Looks good man. Cleaner is always better, atleast for peace of mind anyway. One less thing to worry about I suppose. I always worry about my quick wiring jobs until I go back and do them properly.

I can't really tell from the picture but I am assuming you probably used an eyelet/ring terminal for the ground connection @ the intake mani. Also, I would probably cover that same connection with some electrical tape, where it is crimped/soldered. I now it is crimped but the solder may break up over time with heat and vibration in the engine bay. A couple layers of tape would give you that extra peace of mind.

Hot should be 12v.
2012-08-10 03:41:57
#1160
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
It should be supplied 12, or at least thats how it was on my B13.


gotcha, i'll try to borrow my friends multimeter since mine stopped working, thanks for the info.

Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
Looks good man. Cleaner is always better, atleast for peace of mind anyway. One less thing to worry about I suppose. I always worry about my quick wiring jobs until I go back and do them properly.


ya same here man, leaving shit janky just bugs me.

Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
I can't really tell from the picture but I am assuming you probably used an eyelet/ring terminal for the ground connection @ the intake mani. Also, I would probably cover that same connection with some electrical tape, where it is crimped/soldered. I now it is crimped but the solder may break up over time with heat and vibration in the engine bay. A couple layers of tape would give you that extra peace of mind.

Hot should be 12v.


word i'll probably do that, thanks.
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