Thread: 6262 dyno Results and freeway vid p30

Just get some id1000's/2000 depending on future and top fed rail call it a day!

you are playing with fire and have already poped 1 engine. before or after this 106% I am not sure

True, 106% duty was a bit much. But AFR never went lean, C16 was used, and fuel pressure was at 47-48psi. Perhaps that is all that saved it.

I am not going to be pushing it any farther with high boost until I know for sure. 22-24psi will be the max. Even though I know that 30psi would nail that 500whp mark.

I will post a pic of my dizzy timing mark tomorrow. Just seems like ever since I have had this car the dizzy *looked* advanced to get 15* timing. Now I have a new crank pulley, stock VE, and I should be able to get it spot on.

I think the old motor popped from running 20psi on 91 pump gas. I don't push more than 15psi on pump now. Anything more than that and I am using 100 or C16... just to be safe.

I'm starting to think your timing might have been off in the past with that bad pulley. Now that you have a good one on the car might make some good power. That's why I always use the old school method of sticking a long 1/4 extension through the #1 plug hole. Good luck on the dyno.

That could have been the case, but this pulley has only been on since last summer when I exchanged my Gspec unit out to the stock one. So if the timing was out, it hasn't been out for very long.

I have a timing mark scratched into the dizzy and cam cap from when I set it at 15* on the Gspec pulley. It just sits forward a bit, toward the advanced side.

I'm beating around it right now, so I am just going to take my timing gun to work and time it there on my lunch break.

we street race all the time and all that has used RA1's in the past thought the R888's was a newer better tyre FWD and RWD , when tested no one said the good things about it , everyone prefers the old RA1's , but we have no choice now as they dont ship RA1's again. Big money if someone still has a good pair of RA1'S now to sell.

Ah k on a drag things change. I always think of overal grip when I Think of a tire (used to live near hills so blasting through them seemed more fun that a dig at the lights).

With that in mind the re01r's have a very stiff side wall and work great through the corners. From the line you want different characteristics in the tire i guess. Low pressures not so stiff side wall, more grip when colder etc

Ok got the boost controller working correctly. I was seeing a pretty crazy bouncing needle when I was hitting max boost. A simple change of the vacuum source on the boost controller alleviated all issues.

I timed the car... this time I paid attention to the timing mark on the dizzy. Guess what? SPOT ON! My original timing mark was spot on. This meant the timing was retarded as far as 5* across the board in order to be "conservative". Wow!

I put the timing at my mark, and took it out for a spin. The bottom end response felt awesome, better than ever. the idle under this advance is smooth, and it holds an idle at 900rpm about as perfectly as I could expect. The hunting idle has been fixed since the 20V cams went in... for some odd reason the SR16 cams caused a slightly erratic idle once hot, and the only cure was running 1000-1100rpm idle to keep things from getting too crazy. Perhaps the radiator swap helped with this, but it is nice nonetheless.

So the car idles great. The bottom end power and response were improved immensely! I cannot believe how this engine responds to timing. Once I got on the road, all I can do is smile. The power is progressive, and downright violent for the 10psi its running.

It will be interesting to see what the dyno says is going on. Here's why: I feel the 1.6 cams had a better mid-range. Not because of the low-cam power, but because you can kick the exhaust cam at really low rpm and spool the turbo really fast. My experience with the 20V is that the exhaust cam doesn't like to kick that low. It just makes noise. The down-low response will tell on the dyno. It feels like the powerband feels similar otherwise. Top end response feels great as always, and I hit the limiter yesterday in 2nd pretty hard without feeling power drop off after 8200rpm. It felt good.

Today I hooked the boost up to 14psi and with the advanced timing I was impressed. 3rd gear feels like 2nd practically. It pulls great. I cannot wait to see the dyno results. I am crossing my fingers for a nice result!

I have both 20V cams switching at 5500rpm. You can feel the pull on the cams, but they like the higher rpm. You def feel the cams want to switch higher. At this point, since my butt dyno isn't accurate enough, I don't know which one is better. The car seems better all-around as far as driveability though. The idle quality is better, and the low-end power is more responsive. So it seems like it will perform better as an NA cam, like others have said.

The car feels great on 13psi. I just hope that 14psi is safe enough for this JWT tune on 91 pump. I ran 16psi on the log manifold setup without any issues for a long long time before I got stupid and decided to run 20psi. Ouch.

I feel like 13psi is faster than 16psi on the log, but the dyno will show soon enough. 13psig is like 11psi at sea level. And it feels awesome. 363whp is the one to beat, but more importantly I want to see how the torque reacts as the revs go up.



The red line is the one to beat, and I may have the results as early as tomorrow... Perhaaaaaps.

So here's hoping I can beat 363whp on these cams on 13-14psi.

I love how smooth the a/f looks on your graphs. Really the only downfall of the jwt ecu is not being able to adjust timing in certain areas. Hell most tuners cant get an a/f that smooth all the way across without spending hours upon hours tuning.

Cant wait for some numbers.