Thread: 6262 dyno Results and freeway vid p30

coheed doesnt know it but the man is definely wanting a gtx35r or 6262 billet bb , with that manifold and twin scroll its gonna respond really well , the VE head does wonders and im betting he will be please and forget all about that 500rpm he might loose for insane top end power.

Time for YOU to LISTEN just like log/tubular arguments coheed LOL

This is true. I have been thinking really hard about getting a GTX35r or an HTA3582r and running an ATP 1.06 T3 housing. But that is a lot of dough all at once.

Took the car out for a run. Feeling sorta sluggish though. Then pop. Loose coupler I forgot to tighten. Fixed that and took her out again. Man the brakes feel nice!

The turbo responds really well, particularly during throttle-modulation. It feels great. There is a bit of lag below 4000rpm-4500rpm. But after the VVL hits the response is improved immensely. I have both cams switching at 4500rpm. And it kicks really hard. I could set it like a Honda and put it at 6000rpm, but that would make the bottom end feel gross

On just 10psi, the car feels great. Def keeps pulling all the way up to 8800rpm. It feels good to drive it again!

Also, there is no more exhaust fumes coming into the cabin since I put in the shifter-weather-protector.

I would love a larger turbo! Something to keep the power up all the way to 8500rpm. It feels like it holds power up there, but the dyno says it doesn't.

Also, I may be picking up a new hood for my car. Carbon fiber VIS with a Evo scoop. $400 is cheap shipped right?

sc6262 and yeah that sounds like a good deal

wow yeah $400 is a great deal for that hood. My 60-1 I ordered with the twin scroll 1.06 housing, but the more I think about it, it's probably too big for what I'm planning (since I'm not looking to rev all the way to 9k).

element's P10 rev to 8k with stock 2.0 cams and with the 60-1 it makes awesome power.

I had an appointment to get the car registered tomorrow, but I get a check engine light for two things... knock sensor and crank sensor.

I think the crank sensor code is coming from the flywheel. Obviously, the 6-speed flywheel is not stock. I was told by greg that the tooth count was correct though, and I was told the crank sensor to use is the stock one.

I really hope I can put in a new sensor or something and get it to work. If I can't get it to work, I may not be able to register the car. This will be a huge setback to the project. So I guess I can try to throw in another crank sensor, and pray it works. Because I don't have any other options.

Oh, and my 20V cams came.

eh I know how much that sucks, I had a big set back in my car trying to get it to complete the drive cycle and get ready to go through emissions testing.

Ahh yes, Mrs. Element's G20, pretty much amazing

How hard would it be to make a simulator to read spark trigger and make a crank signal out of it?

I FIXED IT! TURNED OUT TO BE A CRANK POSITION SENSOR THAT HAD A CRACK IN IT!

So I am hooking up the last coupler and taking it to the station. Only code is a knock sensor code, but it doesn't trigger the CEL and it passes with it!


20V cams going in tonight!!!

Going to hook up electronic boost controller also!

WOOOOOOOT!