Thread: Think I went with too big of a turbo...

Here is an interesting teebit, I did two runs, one with cams activating at 5k another at 6k.

At 5k cam switch, the max TP I got is 104TP right before the cams activated, then it instantly dropped to 98tp and didn't get above 100tp.

At 6k switch point load got to 107TP at 5400rpm, then the load started dropping as cams switched.

If TP does indeed follow the torque curve, which it very much so looks like it, then when the cams are activated the is a lost of torque, which explains why the car feels slower with cams being activated.

I'm going to try to not activate the cams at all and see if TP will continue to rise instead of dropping off like it is right now.

You sir, are experiencing VVL suckage. But don't worry. One day it will become VVL ownage

I killed two autometer sending units this way. the ve will make over 100psi cold and ends up killing the gauge or sending unit. I have a prosport oil gauge now and it reads to 110psi. Would have liked to find some thing that would read up to 150psi for added head room.

I will still say, I'm impressed by how fast it is on just a low cam



I've been looking for 150psi gauges, and man they are pretty hard to find.

So the general consensus is that my Oiler is probably still good? I'm wanting to crank the PSI to 15-17, so that the turbo livens up a little bit.

I would think the chain oiler is in place and the gauge just reads low. Remember these gauges are only 3-4% accurate full scale at best. its not like we are all running 1/4% lab grade gauges. I wish I still access to a pressure calibrator so I could show the variation from gauge to gauge. Also keep in mind gauge readings will change with temp. the spec for cal is 20deg cel @ zero elevation and less than 60% RH. I could calibrate a gauge in my lab and take it out to the production floor and it would read slightly different due to the temp variation.

The only odd sound I get is at idle after the car fully warmed up. It's like a rubbing sound. I'm thinking it might be the crank pulley rubbing against something. It may also be my alternator that is slowly going out (not recharging all of the way).

I'm not getting any part throttle sounds like mentioned here:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/23419-chain-oiler-pin-tekkie-special-right-here.html

Installed the MBC today and was getting it adjusted to around 15psi. With the MBC screwed in too hardly, I hit 20+ psi. I made my map very rich and timing dumb just in case for this happened. This turbo might be a slow spooler, but holly crap it hits 20 psi from 12 psi in no time, less then a second probably.

Makes me wish I ran lower comp so that I could get away with running the boost where this turbo likes to breathe.

water/meth injection and leave the pistons how they are and you can probably get away with it. Maybe not quite that high but close

Well my turbo seized up, that's 700 some miles into using Rotella 15w40 oil. I'll see what caused it when I got to rebuild it.

Meanwhile while removing the turbo I found something interesting about the log manifold.

Look inside the T3 flange and on the bottom side, there is a wall right before the flange.




Manifold upside down to show the restriction


This could very well be the reason this specific log doesn't work too well on the VE. Either way time to put a header on the car and drive it NA while I rebuild the turbo and start building the tubular manifold.

Well that sucks for the turbo. Is there a way to round over in manifold for better flow?