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Thread: Think I went with too big of a turbo...

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Posts: 491-500 of 710
2011-09-05 21:13:42
#491
Originally Posted by gio94sr20ve
what special tricks do people do to the manifolds?


Even what you had to do to your manifold. Mine didn't seem to be too bad, but I didn't bother really looking inside of it.

My UEGO is not too old, going on second year of usage. It used to be a lot closer to the engine, right on the leadpipe, after the downpipe. But it wasn't 36" away like AEM suggests it to be. I moved it back to be behind the flexpipe. Which is around 36" away.

It's reading the cruising AFR's just fine though, I'll compare it to the dyno at a later date I guess.
2011-09-05 21:26:49
#492
if the sensor is a couple years old now i would replace it vadim. Mine went completely bad after a year of use and about 12k miles. Mainly because i ran leaded racing gas through it quite a bit. A majority though being 91 pump gas. But the leaded kills them faster for sure. The sensors are like 60 bucks shipped or so. Definitely worth it. AEM suggests 36" but if you look at the hondas running them, they have them more in the range of 12-18" away from the turbine housing. Mine was also about 12-18" away. No issues

Either way i would definitely richen up your a/f under WOT.
2011-09-05 22:24:42
#493
mine is about between the firewall and passenger driveshaft.
2011-09-05 23:20:12
#494
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
if the sensor is a couple years old now i would replace it vadim. Mine went completely bad after a year of use and about 12k miles. Mainly because i ran leaded racing gas through it quite a bit. A majority though being 91 pump gas. But the leaded kills them faster for sure. The sensors are like 60 bucks shipped or so. Definitely worth it. AEM suggests 36" but if you look at the hondas running them, they have them more in the range of 12-18" away from the turbine housing. Mine was also about 12-18" away. No issues

Either way i would definitely richen up your a/f under WOT.


Also the placement was bad, it was pointing down, AEM says this is bad because moisture can sit on it. I put mine at 12 oclock on the new location.

Also having it too close to the turbo would cause it to overheat and could have been why yours failed.

Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
mine is about between the firewall and passenger driveshaft.


Yup that's exactly where mine is.
2011-09-06 00:05:25
#495
Coheed- I think Vadim should go with the vet cams at this point, only because it seems like more work than I thought for him to run the gti-r setup. It will be easier than building a new manifold and much more cost effective. It will also help with spool time (as you know). I still think that he could get what he wants out of this setup with tuning but either way the vet cams would still net huge gains across the board, make power earlier and require a much simpler tune. I still would like to see someone like Jamie(sr20gtir) tune his setup just as it sits and see where it is at. Then drop in the cams if he still isn't happy with the results. Since it is going to cost money either way and he would also need to spend money on dyno time and tuning, it probably won't happen. I still recommend tuning the car on a dyno no matter what, with either cams. I wouldn't consider getting a tubular manifold for what his goals are. Like I and everyone else has said, he will notice nice gains with the tubular but I still do not think that it is necessary. Since he is looking for a more responsive setup, the vet cams will help alot. I suspect that more timing down low while tuning and monitoring everything on a dyno would make the current setup very nice and more responsive. The vet cams certainly won't hurt anything and will help with spool time. Even with the stock ve bottom end, you can run 14lbs+ all day long safely but once again I wouldn't do that unless you strap the car down and really dyno tune it. What are you revving to now V?
Drew
Last edited by totaled200ser on 2011-09-06 at 00-16-38.
2011-09-06 00:22:20
#496
yeah, that is where the crossroads lie. Go tubular, or just get cams. Nissan designed those VET cams to work well with a small turbo, and that is the cheapest way to go. Since I have been down both roads, this is what I recommend.

Going tubular does limit room in the engine bay by quite a bit.
2011-09-06 02:06:51
#497
still the VET has a cast style mani that separates it till the collector , now my buddies 4WD GTIR with DET ,Log and 62mm turbo was Pulling strongggg on 20psi, they then decided to go VE.

VADIM I swear our setup felt laggy and horrible , my buddies wanted to kill me because the VE Head felt worst than the DET Head lol , they ignored me at first when i told them about the log and .63 a/r only because of the trouble to go tubular. Kept mentioning it as we always pressed gas and the VVL and felt worst than my cousins n/a VE.

At 23psi the Turbo kicked the bucket and they had no choice now to go Tubular and a Similar Turbo with .86a/r.

at 15 psi it almost felt like the DET on 20PSI , Crazy , at 21 psi , HOLY.....mother f..k..r, started seeing boost at 4000 , when VVL kicked in at 5000 , wow you couldnt lean forward , all these videos when guys FWD starts roasting tyres , I giggle and wish the ones who hasnt, really FEEL how a VVL Turbo 4WD Reacts when it kicks in, To me a VVL T3 Turboed without a Tubular is not a Turboed VVL lol.

theres around 3 other VVL's with T3 Turbo's I know off and they work like sheitttt, all of them has GTIR mani's with a T3 Adapter, I had a serious talk with one of them and he is doing Tubular , It will finish any day, He had a GTIR mani and T28 and it smoked 1st , 2nd, 3rd , he then did a rebuild with Haltech GT35R , DET Pistons , Rods but used a GTIR Manifold , when 2nd gear went it now it bugged , went out of vvl , sound lazy, it sucked ,

he wil be finished soon. Tubular or GTIR mani w/ Turbo or UTFR !!!

PS: Coheed your advice hits the nail on the head everytime.
Last edited by THE_FUGITIVE on 2011-09-06 at 02-11-45.
2011-09-06 02:12:48
#498
I glad i read this thread,

Im currently building an AWD VET and was going to buy a log manifold because its nice and small. Will use a GTiR manifold for now till a tubular pops up for sale or i have the cash to get one made.
Last edited by pTen on 2011-09-06 at 02-20-46.
2011-09-06 02:21:59
#499
aye pTen behave , what turbo you gonna use?
2011-09-06 02:30:12
#500
Originally Posted by THE_FUGITIVE
still the VET has a cast style mani that separates it till the collector , now my buddies 4WD GTIR with DET ,Log and 62mm turbo was Pulling strongggg on 20psi, they then decided to go VE.

VADIM I swear our setup felt laggy and horrible , my buddies wanted to kill me because the VE Head felt worst than the DET Head lol , they ignored me at first when i told them about the log and .63 a/r only because of the trouble to go tubular. Kept mentioning it as we always pressed gas and the VVL and felt worst than my cousins n/a VE.

At 23psi the Turbo kicked the bucket and they had no choice now to go Tubular and a Similar Turbo with .86a/r.

at 15 psi it almost felt like the DET on 20PSI , Crazy , at 21 psi , HOLY.....mother f..k..r, started seeing boost at 4000 , when VVL kicked in at 5000 , wow you couldnt lean forward , all these videos when guys FWD starts roasting tyres , I giggle and wish the ones who hasnt, really FEEL how a VVL Turbo 4WD Reacts when it kicks in, To me a VVL T3 Turboed without a Tubular is not a Turboed VVL lol.

theres around 3 other VVL's with T3 Turbo's I know off and they work like sheitttt, all of them has GTIR mani's with a T3 Adapter, I had a serious talk with one of them and he is doing Tubular , It will finish any day, He had a GTIR mani and T28 and it smoked 1st , 2nd, 3rd , he then did a rebuild with Haltech GT35R , DET Pistons , Rods but used a GTIR Manifold , when 2nd gear went it now it bugged , went out of vvl , sound lazy, it sucked ,

he wil be finished soon. Tubular or GTIR mani w/ Turbo or UTFR !!!

PS: Coheed your advice hits the nail on the head everytime.


tublar ftw, the gtir mani is a great mani also.

stratton.
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