Thread: Think I went with too big of a turbo...

I'm an oil newb, whats so good about zinc?

I'll also be installing the stock crank pulley. Perhaps my Gspec one is off and my base timing is off too. I'm hearing a rubbing sound coming from the crank pulley. So will need to take the pulley off anyway.





We get fairly cold here, even now I'm already getting cold start issues. I got a lean point and can't seem to find it. AFR's just spike to 17's under medium load. Gotta find the table that handles the enrichment.

I'll look into diesel oil, why non synthetic?



Think that's something I can find at Walmart at this hour? I wouldn't mind changing my oil tomorrow on the day off and see how she runs.

its usually hit or miss on getting it at walmart. Ive only found it at walmart once.
I usually find it at advance or oreillys.
Sometimes i get lucky at Oreillys and they will have a 5qt jug on sale for 25.99

Found some 5w40 Mobile 1 synthetic, $26, picked up the Rotella 15w40 for $13, freaking nice price . I'll try it out in a few weeks and see how it does, my 5w30 is brand new and would hate to waste it.

Nice price on the rotella.

Diesel oil has tons of zinc which I believe helps the oil "stick" to metal better. I just noticed it didn't break down and get watery on me.

Ya whatever you do, you never should run 5w30 in a DET unless it's the dead of winter. Even the FSM says this.

FSM suggests 10w30 year around for DET, but I run 10w40 in summer or as others have suggested -- something even more thick.

I think once you switch you'll notice better oil pressure.

-G

Imho the oil pump on the DE and DET is just terrible, and I suggest running a 10w40 or 15w40 oil. The DET is better, it at least has an oil cooler. I've seen many DEs fail from oil starvation on 5w30, or spin bearings from low oil pressure.

Vadim i highly recommend you switch oils to something thicker. Too thin for a turbo motor. Like they said, get some of the rotella 15w40 at a minimum, or Mobil 1 15w50, i think Valvoline makes a 20w50 synthetic, also great stuff. I know there is a brand out there that does a 10w60 also good stuff just cant remember who makes it.

Also if your plugs looked like that after only a couple pulls your running leaner than you think. Ground straps turning white like that only after a couple pulls indicates a really lean mixture. You might want to consider richening it up some. My ground straps with a 11.5:1 a/f were a grey to tan color, Only time i saw ground straps that white after dynoing was when i had a 12.5:1 a/f mixture or above.

Great to know thanks



Good point, I never looked through the Japanese manual (since it's in Japanese). Though now I do have the English OBD1 FSM, which has USDM-JDM motors/cars.

I've always stuck to 5w30 year round. Figured it's best for the gas mileage. Guess will see how 15w40 does.



Since my previous motor was a DET, the oil pressures seemed fine and dandy. I'll get the 15w40 in tomorrow then. Is this oil still good for 3k oil changes? Even though I've been doing 1k oil changes...



Now is the reason for switching oils, simply because there is a lot more stress on the motor? Or does the turbo like heavier weight oils. Man I wasted money on German Castrol... At least my wife's car can take it .

As for it being lean, when doing the pulls my AFR's where 12:1 (3500rpm), then 11.5-11.8, and then 10.9-11.2 after 5k rpm. 12:1 area is the lean area that I was talking about that I had to tune out due to the spark plug change. Unless my AEM UEGO is lying to me, not sure where I am lean then. I'm using the narrowband too, thus my cruising AFR's are 14.5-15.3.

That should teach you that you need to tune the car on the dyno, not that you did too much to the car. What I and many others that have done these setups have said is that you have less margin for error with a stock bottom end ve. I wish you would have listened from the beginning. That is a mute point now since you tried your own way and it seems like you are not getting good results. Everyone that I know and many people who are on here who have done or tuned similar setups have suggested the same thing. I really hope that you learned that lesson from this and not that you did too much to your car I am just trying to help and so were others who have done similar things. I know you like to tune yourself and it is a great thing to learn but not at the expense of your engine.
Drew

The reason for switching oils is that heavier weight oil stands up better to the stress and heat of a high performance engine. I would 20w50 in the summer and 5w40 in the winter, both in synthetic of course. I also recommend to people who are burning oil, not suggesting that you are to switch to dino oil. Synthetic tends to burn faster.