Thread: Think I went with too big of a turbo...

I know VE's have better oil pumps than the DET so my oil pressure readings will not be worth much, but one thing I've noticed helps Vadim is to run the right oil for the time of the year. I run 10w-40 in the summer. 10w-30 the rest of the year. Having a thicker oil in the summer helps keep oil pressure where it should be.

I've also been considering heat wrapping my SS downpipe as it's really close to the oil pan(which would in theory heat up the oil and thin it out..lowering oil pressure), including the compressor outlet pipe.

-G

Vadim, you should be seeing higher than 10psi at idle. I would drop your oil pan and see if your chain oiler pin is in your oil pan. Most people that see that low of pressure when warm is due to that popping out. Im gonna be removing the one from my new ve motor and reinstalling it with loctite like i did to my current ve block when it popped out Im not gonna put everything together just to have it pop out.

What thickness oil are you running. If i were you would run a 15w50 either mobil 1 or the 20w50 in other brands, I think there is also a 10w60 oil as well. Also good stuff. Should be running a thicker oil when boosted. For one it will help with oil pressure, two help with bearing life, 3 better cylinder wall lubrication and ring seal.

But yeah even if your running a thinner oil, i would drop the lower pan and see if that oiling pin is laying in there.

I run 20w50. I've seen what 10w40 looks like on the dyno after a few runs, looks like water. Needless to say I never ran 10w40 again. Rotella 15w40 is very good too.

I thought those guides only worked if you had a fresh set of plugs -> WOT -> shut car off while WOT -> pull plugs to read them.

yes thats what i told him. Those detonation signs could be from the very beginning when he was running a VE map if he hasnt changed them which he said he hasnt. So yeah, need to put in a fresh set of 7's or 8's, gapped at .022 and do a pull in whatever gear, shut car off and pull plugs. If they are fresh and clean, nothing to worry about, Again do the pull w/ car fully warmed up to get a worst possible situation pull and so on. If you have speckles after one solid pull then your getting light detonation and need to correct it. Again vadim i highly suggest the VET cams if thats not what your already planning to do, i think that will give you the most bang for the buck.

Let us know how it goes

As I was removing the plugs to replace them I saw the cylinder #4. Looks like it has it the worst... Now what's odd is, the other side of the plug looks just fine.



Installed new plugs, did two-three runs and shut off the car. The plugs looked fine. Then afterward did a few more runs and checked the plugs out again. I did adjust some timing/fuel, since I had some lean spots earlier on in the RPM's. Drove about 5 miles, regular/spirited driving, got home and checked the plugs, the bottom rings where dark.

These were gaped at .032 by default, so I left them be like that. I had no spark plug blow out or anything. I didn't bother indexing them too hardly though.




I'm running 5w30 Valvoline Full Synthetic. I also have German Castrol (0w30 but works like 5w30) ready to go in. Guess it is a bit too watery. I did have to drain some of the 5w30 Valvoline and it did feel like water.



Do you guys have any viscosity issues on cold starts?



If I'm seeing detonation with low cams, then VET cams wont help much at all. I think it's just new manifold time, doesn't seem like I can buy anything that would have a nice fitment. I've got my eyes out on a MIG and will need a bottle and start building away.

No viscosity issues here. We really don't have a winter here so I just run 20w50 year round.

My advice is to run a diesel oil. It is cheap, and a decent viscosity for summer months. Go 5w40 synthetic for winters. But diesel oil is so far beyond regular gasoline engine oils... it's not even funny. They are pulling virtually all the zinc out of new gas oils unless you go with a really high weight.

VET cams may help. I detonated hard on 16psi on my VE cams, but ran 16psi daily for a long long time with no issues on the VET cams. I still vote for a tubular though. Reversion can cause detonation, which is the problem I had.

Also, I would check in on the timing. The timing mark on your plugs reads really aggressive. Are you running more timing than you should to get the power you want?

I'm not an expert tuner, but it certainly seems that is the case. Either that, or your combustion temps are really high.

Detonation will be seen on the plugs on the side closest to the intake side. I don't really know all the reasons, but detonation likes to occur on the intake side more often than the exhaust side.

X2 on the diesel oil. Loads of zinc. BTW I'd just run the conventional diesel stuff.

i use the 5w40 mobil 1 for turbo diesel trucks.