Originally Posted by
Scrildo Sorry if someone mentioned this already but I'm browing from my cell phone and didn't read through this entire thread. Looking at the pics from the first page and the bov flangeit seems you are running a greddy type s or type rs or even a hks racing bov if you are ditch that pos and go with a hks ssqv those other ones leak bad under boost.
I pressure tested the system to above 25 psi (my boost gauge only reads up to 25 psi). The only place it started leaking boost is above 20 psi at the turbo itself (where it bolts to the CHRA).
Originally Posted by
cortrim1 I stopped using jwt because of this. No off the self tune was ever right on any of my cars and I ended up having to use a safc-2 to fix things. On the other hand I have had one of Setzer's tunes on my car and it ran like a champ out of the box. Thats not to say there was not room for improvement. I moved on to a Aem due to lack for flexibility in the tuning software that was around at the time.
Agreed on this, JWT is a nice base tune to get your car running and never modify it past what you requested JWT tune to be. I personally cannot even see how people can run a JWT tune reliably on very specific setups.
Originally Posted by
Coheed Well, if everyone here has tunnel vision I'd like to know what you guys suppose. I mean, Vadim has taken a lot of other people's advice, to no avail.
So if you have suggestions, please help. I'm always willing to learn new things. But everyone told me the same exact thing as Vadim, and it really took me doing my own experimentation and documenting the results to benefit everyone and prevent the same scenario. And yet, some of you still believe that what Vadim is experiencing is related to [insert magical cure here].
So if this is a tuning issue, how would you fix it?
Originally Posted by
Rockwood
BTW, not sure if this was already addressed (read the first 5-6 pages, then the last 3-4 pages), but the stock knock sensor is nearly worthless at higher power levels. As I recall from back in the day, JWT said their tune ignores knock sensor input on the larger injector setups because it gives too many false readings.
Yup well aware of this. The OEM tune ignores the knock sensor feedback above 4800 rpm because engine noise is too great at that point. I believe I saw the same mentioned in the FSM.
Now here is my theory on the false knocks that I'm seeing. VE engine runs a lot smoother then my DE ran. The knock sensor looks for voltage spikes, and counts that as a knock. Thus if the stock DE regular voltage is 1v, then a spike would be 2v, and counted as a knock. I'm seeing voltages between .30-2v while regularly driving. I've seen the possible knocks at 1-1.5v. I'm wondering if my knock sensor needs to be replaced though (2 years old).
Originally Posted by
SE-Rican Do me favor. Explain to me why cars with simillar set ups as Vadims are making more power?
Maybe it's the FL inflated numbers theory?
Originally Posted by
SR20GTi-R Lol.
I would but I just don't have it in me.
I wish all you guys the best.
I really respect you guys, and appreciate your feedback and your help. But honestly I have not received any details on how you guys get away with logs and VE cams. I'm trying to run as much timing possible without knock, well what looks to be real knock (2-4 knock sensor voltage). I'm not hearing any knock, but I've never heard knock in person thus I don't know what to listen for. Maybe there are some timing tricks, but you guys haven't not shared anything. Which you are not required to do so, but when you are going to shout YOU ARE DOING IT WRONG, it would be nice to have some proper advise.
Now if I came on here claiming to be making great numbers on a restrictive manifold, you guys would drill me to the ground until I gave real dyno numbers. So far you guys are expecting us to just convert to what you guys are saying without showing any real numbers or even mentioning anything that would lead to those numbers that you guys are getting.
Originally Posted by
SE-Rican
Vadim I hope you get your car figured out bro.
Thanks man I appreciate it, I finally feel better about the car since the SPAL fans are actually cooling the car enough to run ac up a mountain!
Originally Posted by
Coheed If you guys were making power like you claim, you would break trannies. Unless your car is completely gutted, you cannot fight simple physics. But that's not the point. The point is that you guys come in here with this "almighty" attitude, and tell Vadim that his tune is wrong. Just like you guys told me that the VET cams would suck. Just like you guys told me that reversion is "theory".
To say that you know that his tune is the issue is juvenile, especially since you guys haven't (in most cases) done all the testing I have. It's all well documented, and I've posted the quotes.
Point is, you guys come in and say he is doing everything wrong. But you give no insight to him. I've asked before, and I'll ask again. If there is something wrong with his setup, what do you think it is, and what would you do to fix it?
Now my tune being wrong shouldn't be dismissed. It could very well be wrong. It's just hard to say when all we are being told is your doing it wrong
Originally Posted by
TeKKiE
And as for Ashton and his retarded comment: Calum hasn't put out a single tune. He's a hardware guy and CLEARLY states that. His tunes are nothing more than JWT-esque. They ballpark you so that YOU have to do the work to get the car running 100%.
Not true, Calum hand tuned a tune that he gave me/gave to other B14 DET users. I made 10-15 more WHP on his newer tune then some of his older tunes that I found on the forum. When I asked him about it, he said he hand tuned it on his B14.
Originally Posted by
Coheed In any case, you should feel the VVL kick a lot harder than it does. You should Feel it. Period. Vadim is hearing it kick, with no real movement of power.
Originally Posted by
gio94sr20ve I think the Florida guys ego comment is crazy, I doubt Florida boys have demonstrated egos on this thread.
All I'm saying On here is Dyno it and you'll find a factual answer On your specific setup.
I give no input on what he should do unlike others unless you actually tune and then go from there.
DYNO time and actually tuning fuel timing and anything mechanical.
Work with your budget and if what you have is what you can get with what your willing to invest, then tune it and make sure it's safe. That's all I've been saying.
Coheed I have not broken a gearbox because I have learned how to drive to not break them and refined my driving habits to not tear them.
Yes I am an aggressive driver and I do not lift off the gas to shift, I just learned in what gear to put the power, you look at the three racing vids of me at the events and you don't hear me bouncing off the rev limiter in everygear.
Breaking stuff does not always mean power.
I had a friend that broke a clutch disk every week, does that mean he made power no, he just did not shift right.
13 years owning stick shift cars and I have yet to bust a clutch.
VADIM Dyno the car, you'll get your true answer. Not hunches.
No kidding, need to hit up the dyno now just to see what's going on. I do have a beltronics accelerometer, I k,now a few guys south of the border that use them
At least know I can tell people, if you want to make easy power don't do a log manifold on VE. You can make a ton of power, it's just not widely known as how to. What we do know is reversion on VE cams is bad with restrictive manifolds/turbos.
Now according to the FSM and 96-99 cams, there is only 8* of overlap. Highport cams seem to have 16* of overlap.