Thread: Think I went with too big of a turbo...

If I can get the EGT gauge from Keo I will be able to measure mine

would be a decent idea

Yes it would. The backpressure was measured once in a sort of ghetto way. I took the vaccum line from the boost gauge off and put a fitting on the manifold through the EGT port and read boost pressure off of the exhaust. On 1.1bar I was seeing 22-23psi backpressure at around 7000rpm.

simple enough way to do it. So at 16psi you were seeing 22-23. Thats a ratio of about 1.5:1. Again not good for a larger overlap cam. You will definitely be getting heat back into the cylinders with that kind of backpressure ratio on 20ve cams or any other long overlap cam.

My t3 setups i can almost gurantee you were either under or right at 1:1 ratio. Probably 1:1 at almost redline but under that for most of the powerband which is why i never had problems with reversion and my setups flowed well. Its all a difference in setups.

21psi was with the 60-1. On the 50trim he ran no more than 16psi iirc.

I never run anything hotter than BKR7E's on any of the turbo cars i do. I run 8's on my car but could get away with 7's if i wanted to.

For some reason the cars down here make good power with very simple setups. I'm still on a basic board with the Emanage for tuning. I can't imagine how much more i could make with better tuning. I will be using Nismotrinic once the realtime boards come out though.

The basic board/realtime is actually a very good tuning solution.

Outside of litte options they allow, fuel is fuel and timing is timing. There is not much more to be gained power wise.

The only real advantage with a standalone like the AEM is resolution within the maps, being able to go speed density while being able to tune in 1/4 increments vs whole degrees.

A big portion of this forum has not reached the limit of the factory ECU where a standalone is needed. I was very happy last year going through the traps at 130+mph on my basic board that only cost me $100

V should be slapped about the head with a trout hand. IDK if you're running a damn T25 DE, you shouldn't be running 6E's (no matter how you gap them) on a FI setup. Bad juju.

DON'T sidegap your 7's. Run them straight up and start over with your tune. My DET was happiest with about a .028" gap at 1bar of boost from the 30r.

Weird that yours does this with the twin scroll and larger lift cams.

With the SR16 cams, the higher we revved the more power in made until 8500 because of a tuning restriction with the factory ECU, and not having valve reliefs. Power just seemed to flatten at 480HP.

This was with a sigle scroll GT3076R .82 and the GT35R .82 on a ram-horn manifold.

You can make a ton of power with a Calum ecu without TunerCode even. Since to make power, like you said, all you need to modify is fuel and timing tables. It's when you try to get good daily driving is where you will start having issues.

TunerCode lets you modify just about all aspects of the OEM ECU. Thus you can make the car run like it's bone stock when you are outside of your power range. You can control every fuel enrichment table, so that you can conserve on gas. Since a lot of tables are relative values, when you double your injectors in size, you will be throwing twice as much fuel based on those tables, thus you need to tune them down.

For most people though, that's not a problem. I am very particular with my tune, and want that OEM drive-ability and reliability when I'm not beating on the car.



Not the DEEP trout hand, oh please master spare me!

I ran 7E's from my DET when I first got the motor running, then I ran the 6E-N's because VE requires (at least some say it requires -N's). I saw no real difference butt dyno wise or MPG wise.

I've had really good luck with sidegapped plugs, besides 3mpg gains on the highway, on my DET I made 7whp over standard plugs.

.028" gap is .018" gap technically, at least going by the muscle car how side gap guide.