Originally Posted by
cortrim1 air to water setup and a electric water pump. Your a/c will work fine then.
Air to water wont help much in this case actually. Intercooler is only a small block in the airflow on the P11. The condensor becoming almost 100* hotter when AC is on is the problem. That hotter air is now heat soaking the air before it hits the radiator.
Originally Posted by
SR20GTi-R Here is what you need to do:
1 - Get a set of SR16 or 20v cams.
2- Lock and set your base timing the correct way.
3- Schedule some dyno time and see what the car is really doing.
Like I said in the other thread, tuning a timing table on the street is risky business. Without seeing what the car is doing for power/TQ everything you are doing is pointless.
Throw all the theory and other b.s out the window and get on the dyno.
The cams alone are not going to magically give you the power/spool you are looking for. Tuning is.
I don't see the need for bigger cams with more overlap, especially for my power goals.
Timing is at 15, unless my Gspec pulley is wrong (it is the gen2).
If I didn't have knock feedback I wouldn't bother street tuning this thing nearly as much. Plus now I know why all of that knock was showing up, reversion. When I did a few days with low cams only, I was surprised on that I wasn't seen any knock at all on the same timing map.
Dyno's are not cheap in my area, I had a forum member tell me the same, apparently where he is from it's $35 for 3 pulls. Where I am at I have to drive an hour, pay $75 for 3 pulls, or pay $100 for an hour test and tuning. I want my setup to be done and consistent before I spend an hour testing and tuning.