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Thread: battling heat soak

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Posts: 41-50 of 92
2011-08-04 02:51:36
#41
Im working on installing a digital coolant temp guage in place of factory cluster gauge within the next week.

Ive been trying to get a hold of/borrow a laptop to datalog with, because the battery for my laptop died several years ago. and its been a wall outlet laptop for a long time.... Unless someone has a converter i can use in my cigarette lighter?

That sounds like a fun experiment, and Im willing, just need something to datalog with.
2011-08-04 03:49:20
#42
Go to RadioShack and get a Power Inverter. I run one in my car for my laptop so it can stay charged. Mine was $40 and it has a power plug like you would find at home, a usb plug and a ciggarette lighter all in one. I can run my GPS, radar detector, charge my phone and run my laptop off it all at once.

Last edited by blairellis on 2011-08-04 at 03-55-00.
2011-08-04 04:17:05
#43
$20 at Walmart for Power plug and USB plug. That's all you need honestly.

If you want to run the GPS at the same time, get a Y splitter for $5 while you are at Walmart too.
2011-08-04 04:22:45
#44
Not saying he had to spend that much, just was saying what I had and what I spent.
2011-08-04 04:22:51
#45
that will run a 3 amp laptop charger?

im looking for one of the on their website...
Last edited by unijabnx2000 on 2011-08-04 at 04-25-52.
2011-08-04 04:25:07
#46
Ok this thread is all over the place,there are too many people throwing ideas that don't apply. The problem is being mis-diagnosed. Why would heat soaking cause hiccups? What exactly do you mean by hiccups? What temps is your oil or coolant at when all of this is happening? This really sounds like a tuning/sensor problem going in the wrong direction as already said.

But on the note of heat soak your intercooler pipe is in a bad location, running over the exhaust mani like it is. Aluminum absorbs heat bad enough as is with out sitting over a hot plate (the mani) like it is. Re route that shit, take a look at how so other guys are doing it with less pipe that doesn't run over the manifold. With as much pipe as you have you won't have to buy any more. Your problem is not the heat from the radiator as much as is it is the manifold (among other things) if that is even is the case.
2011-08-04 04:28:38
#47
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
that will run a 3 amp laptop charger?

im looking for one of the on their website...


I'll reply like you are talking to me because I'm not sure if you are talking to me or Vadim.

Radio Shack doesn't list it on their site. Check it out in the store. I posted a pic of the exact one I got if that helps. Its a 150w. I got it like 2-3 months ago so I am assuming they still have something like it?
2011-08-04 04:47:03
#48
ok Thanks.
2011-08-04 04:47:23
#49
Originally Posted by Vadim
Agreed just sitting here trying to figure it out. Here is what I'm thinking right now, please let me know if and where I'm wrong.

Lets assume we are using aluminum only pipes, since they dissipate heat the best.

Hot side
If you leave bare aluminum pipes (painted at most) and the outside air is colder, the hot air from the pipes should transfer out. But if the hot side piping is too close to the exhaust it will get hotter.

By wrapping the hot side you are forcing the hot air to stay in the pipes thus hotter air will hit the intercooler.

Cold Side
Now onto the cold side, the air after the intercooler should be cooler then engine bay air, by not wrapping the cold side pipes they will get hot from the engine bay heat and thus will warm up the pipes.

Say if you wrap the cold side, it should be more resistant to attracting heat from the engine bay, and should keep colder air from the intercooler to the intake manifold.


Now Your intake manifold is another heat magnet, get Thermoblok spacer kit and wrap the intake manifold too.

Finally exhaust wrap might be appealing but be ready to have a fiberglass full engine bay. My heat wrapped header still spits out fiberglass all over the place when the fans kick on .


Aluminum displaces and absorbs heat more than steel, not necessarily a good thing if it is by a heat source. Steel would absorb and displace less heat over that exhaust manifold. So the fluid inside steel pipe is less affected in a steel pipe.

Wrapping pipe only helps keep the intake temps cooler if the pipe is next to a heat source. There is no reason to wrap the intake manifold in most cases. The air is already really hot from that pipe that runs over the exhaust mani. Wrapping the pipe after it has been heated just keeps the heat in the pipe.
2011-08-04 04:58:21
#50
Originally Posted by jere
Ok this thread is all over the place,there are too many people throwing ideas that don't apply. The problem is being mis-diagnosed. Why would heat soaking cause hiccups? What exactly do you mean by hiccups? What temps is your oil or coolant at when all of this is happening? This really sounds like a tuning/sensor problem going in the wrong direction as already said.


Dont have a coolant temp guage installed yet.
Or know the oil temp.

Id think that adjusting the tune would fix it.
When my car was dyno tuned, it was 50F outside & with the hood open.
But im sure the heat soaking wasnt accounted for in the tune, and when (i assume) the intake temps get 200F or maybe more, that will cause the hiccups(probably detonation) im getting until ive been rolling a min or two for some airflow.
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