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Thread: battling heat soak

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Posts: 21-30 of 92
2011-08-03 13:31:22
#21
There should be no reason heat soak should be causing you these problems. I really think Dave is on to the fix. Make sure that is an open element IAT sensor and get that tune for hotter temps sorts out.
2011-08-03 14:19:22
#22
Boosted engine bays get seriously hot when the car stops moving and even an open element iat will heatsoak.

C
2011-08-03 14:33:12
#23
Originally Posted by Vadim
Maybe give this thing a go? Even though it looks like snail oil...


Originally Posted by Viprdude
lmao


Well snake oil doesn't do anything, snail oil will make you go slower...
2011-08-03 14:43:36
#24
When the car stops moving, there is less ambient air cooling the intercooler, so the air entering the engine is warmer, and the IAT sensor measures this rise. When the engine is shut off and the car is sitting, under-hood heat will naturally heat the cold side piping and the air inside the pipe. When the engine is restarted, this hot air in the pipe moves over the IAT and the IAT indicates the temp. of the air entering the engine, which is what we want. Heat soak error is the small portion of heat conducted from the pipe directly to the sensor, which is much less of an issue with an open element sensor.

Dave
2011-08-03 15:43:19
#25
Those are old pictures. i take some to show what i said.
Since me just saying i wrapped those things isnt enough.
2011-08-03 15:56:37
#26
Header wrap on intake piping never make a lick of sense to me. =/
2011-08-03 15:58:39
#27
well made a huge improvement on my first symptoms of heat soak.

and the iat sensor is a open element.

primarily the soaking is happening when i sit still and the radiator fans kick on and blow all that hot air at the cold pipes
Last edited by unijabnx2000 on 2011-08-03 at 16-12-56.
2011-08-03 16:11:49
#28
Painting the intake pipes white will help reduce radiant heat transfer. It won't do anything for convection heat transfer, but it will help some. Google "heat wrapping intake" for more info.
2011-08-03 16:14:53
#29
Im thinking when i redo the piping and get a bigger intercooler, ill use less couplers and try some of that gold or silver reflective tape.
2011-08-03 16:38:47
#30
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Header wrap on intake piping never make a lick of sense to me. =/


Agreed just sitting here trying to figure it out. Here is what I'm thinking right now, please let me know if and where I'm wrong.

Lets assume we are using aluminum only pipes, since they dissipate heat the best.

Hot side
If you leave bare aluminum pipes (painted at most) and the outside air is colder, the hot air from the pipes should transfer out. But if the hot side piping is too close to the exhaust it will get hotter.

By wrapping the hot side you are forcing the hot air to stay in the pipes thus hotter air will hit the intercooler.

Cold Side
Now onto the cold side, the air after the intercooler should be cooler then engine bay air, by not wrapping the cold side pipes they will get hot from the engine bay heat and thus will warm up the pipes.

Say if you wrap the cold side, it should be more resistant to attracting heat from the engine bay, and should keep colder air from the intercooler to the intake manifold.


Now Your intake manifold is another heat magnet, get Thermoblok spacer kit and wrap the intake manifold too.

Finally exhaust wrap might be appealing but be ready to have a fiberglass full engine bay. My heat wrapped header still spits out fiberglass all over the place when the fans kick on .
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