Thread: Headstud comparison

Greddy or AEBS

Both bottom out and are best way to go. ARP suck, the design is garbage as they don't bottom out. They are strong though.

Brent

People seem to have a hard time getting their hands on the AEBS, you know of a place people can get them?

AEBS does not respond to emails or calls or anything, and I don't think they even make them anymore.....Cosworth is changing their design so their head studs are not available. Not sure about Tomie head studs, but they are $531. I can't find anyone who actually sells the Greddy studs. I am trying to get the engine done by summer. This just sucks. I am going to be pushing more than 600whp. I have over 6k into my block and heads. I am not trying to skimp out on cheaper head bolts, but all of them (Greddy, AEBS, ect...)are difficult to find and I work at performance shop!!!!!There is a difference in the design of the ARP ones, the bolts look physically different but the thread count is the same. Can anyone actually get ahold of ARP and find out what the design difference is????!!!!!!

YES.
YES.
NO.

But let me ask you this, Should it really matter if I spent $200 or $20,000 on my car? It's called piece of mind. It also doesn't matter WHAT the whp output of the motor is. I could be pushing 30PSI on a turbine, and still only make 400whp or so. The point of this thread was so that people could look for alternatives on high boost applications.

I just bought an A'pexi headgasket, for piece of mind. I'd like to not spend a crazy amount of money on a set of headstuds, if I don't have to. I just don't want to use stock.

Agreed...... Do you have any pics of your head studs Tekkie???? I will post pics tomorrow, I just want to make sure I actually got the redesigned ones.....

^I believe Tekkie said that their isn't a difference by visually looking at them. The strength of the material is what suppose to be different.



^Post #68

Like I said simpistic, I get the point of the thread, and the alternative I am offering is the OEM alternative that is so quickly overlooked.
No it does not matter if you spend 200 or 20k, that question was a lead in to the 3rd one that brings us to what you said, "piece of mind".
If you dont want to risk you nicely built motor on some ARP's, then there are few other options and all of them are double the cost of ARP. If you are making 500whp+ then a set of $400+ head studs should be no big deal with the amount already invested on your motor to keep your investment together.
We are agreeing on many if not all aspects here, I just want people to realize that most of them out there dont need anything other then OEM head bolts.

anyone have the measurements on the stock bolts??

Well for the crowd of us shooting for 500+whp it would be nice if we had a definitive answer for these studs. I have used them up to about a 400whp limit without problems. I just don't want any more complications when I do crank the boost.

I second that COHEED.



Really Ben... When I called ARP and spoke with Bones, he told me the design is flawed and the studs are so tough to find, that he didn't think he would have to change the part numbers, because his dealers were all complaining about the lack of inventory, (as was stated by Tekkie).

We all hope they dispose of the old part numbers and ask for the old ones back for exchange, such as was stated by another member.

The flaw in design is real, or they all wouldn't be changing the designs, nor would anyone state they popped a head under boost...right?

I suppose there a bunch of guys out there who are using them and don't want to know their engine might break. Soon the world will have new designs from three, or four manufacturers, so we can all go out and replace our studs the same week, driving demand to the roof.

Looks like you'll have to call a fellow hot-rodder for secret stash HB's, Tekkie!

Too bad the 1/2 incher's will require the block to be drilled at a shop, no matter what, (unless you think you can hold the old 3/4 inch drill straight, level, and while cutting over-sized inserts).