Thread: Headstud comparison

lol, search you noob!!


J/K
http://www.mazworx.com/store/?event=displayProduct&product=34

it's about $200-$300 more than those studs, you'll also need there's headgasket.

Right, but you'll see that Mazworx includes the machine work in order to accept their headstuds. This won't be acceptable, because you'll have to send in your stuff to be worked on. I don't have the freedom/time to do this. Now, if they sold just the headstuds at a lower cost, I may be interested. I'm sure I can get a local shop to perform the machine work.

Obviously, the HG would be required due to the increased diameter of the studs, that much is a no brainer. :P

1/2" studs are from a Chevy IIRC

edit: sending you a PM on something I've found that I'm not 100% on.

subscribed also, good info here

Was my question on a local forum that retarded? Does everyone understand what I was trying to convey?

http://elpasoracing.com/lounge/index.php?topic=7623.0

I can't help but scratch my head at the responses...

Now I am confused. I though stillen had cosworth studs that bottomed out? Is there really nothing around that will work? I am putting my engine together soon, and I may have to use a cometic gasket. I have already blown 1 cometic and I have yet to blow a stock 20v metal head gasket with the ARP studs. But if I can get ahold of better studs I may as well do it while I am in there.

Still did in fact carry the Cosworth headstud that correctly bottomed out in the block.

The problem is now, that Cosworth is re-designing their headstuds. (Possibly to make them even stronger, is my guess).

So, this turns into a 4~6 month wait.

I'm getting frustrated, and don't want to use ARP headstuds, if I can help it. Doesn't look like I'll have much of a choice, though.

there was a guy on the other board selling his ARP studs. he locked the thread b/c ARP offered him an even exchange for the newer design. i will have to find out the validity of that, but it was posted by 93specv in a head stud thread.

EDIT: Found the thread. Those of you with ARP's might want to contact them.

http://www.sr20forum.com/naturally-aspirated-performance-parts/227273-arp-rod-bolts-head-studs-nib.html

Not sure what's going on in this thread, but it seems there's some miss-information flying around. Studs by design are not meant to "bottom out". They should be hand tight at most. ARP's studs having a bulge on top of the lower threads of their stud is a good thing. It prevents people from accidentally bottoming out the stud. The reasons studs should not be bottomed out is best seen in Corky Bell's book Maximum Boost. I don't have the explanation or the great pictures (couldn't find them online) but let me give it a try.

When you bottom out a stud you've pre-loaded the top of the threads in the block with stress. You then tighten the nut at the top, producing even more stress on the top of the threads in the block.



Uhh, we have iron blocks. Right?

Seriously, what is going on in this thread?

we have aluminum blocks with steel sleeves. my question to you is, if studs are not meant to bottom out, why do the AEBS and greddy have a "dowel" tip that touches the bottom? i'm not trying to start an argument, it's just an actual question i have. from what i've read, the ARP's are flawed b/c they do not have enough thread surface. from the pics above it seems there are not as many threads on the block end of the stud.