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Thread: No power at 5700 rpm. Just falls flat on its face.

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Posts: 21-27 of 27
2011-08-07 22:10:17
#21
Sentra, I think you are correct. I just needed someone to show me this relation

UPDATE:
Spark plugs removed and the results are a little concerning. The number 1 and 2 spark plugs have oil all ALL OVER them and within the spark plug holes!! I am figuring that the spark plug grommets are shot (ahhh, good thing I bought a new valve cover gasket set which includes the grommets ). The other 2 look good, but I will post pictures and you folks can be the judge. I have to run out for a few so pictures will be posted (with several more statements) explaining the current situation in the next few hours (I also need to bring up the spark plug diagram for comparisons)
Last edited by Boostlee on 2011-08-07 at 22-13-56.
2011-08-08 04:44:22
#22
Consult logs, timing, maf voltage, injector %, etc.
2011-08-08 04:50:33
#23
^^^ Not certain if I understand your post.........

Oh and yes, my TPS sensor was within spec at idle all the way up to WOT (apart from is reading circa 3.3 Volts for both new and old TPS sensor )

I just got home so pics tomorrow 1st thing
2011-08-08 13:07:34
#24
Ok, as promised, pictures



PLUG 1 (the minor shreds of material you see is just from when I used a napkin to clean off the oil and it left small shreds of itself as it got snag along the lines and burs of the plug)


PLUG 2



PLUG 3



PLUG 4



Let me know what you guys think

Thanks

Last two plugs look at bit on the lean side........Does anyone agree with this conclusion??
Last edited by Boostlee on 2011-08-08 at 13-17-01.
2011-08-14 02:43:30
#25
Looks lean to me tooo.
2011-08-14 06:15:06
#26
UPDATE:

Problem FIXED!!

But before the story, the plugs themselves might be a little misleading from the fact that, in order to gauge what is really going on, you need to make a run in boost and under load and them shut it off as soon as possible, as any idle or cruise conditions would revert to lean mixture, hence the plugs looking "gray/white" or lean. Unfortunately, this procedure was not carried out by myself hence the color of the plugs (boost, cruise, then shit off and check plug is how I went about it, which is a NO NO!!)

Now, to the fix

I went and made a boost leak tester, and before I could even get the sucker on, I start ripping into the boost pipes (this is all planned, so no worries as the pipes needed to be redone regardless). Every pipe and coupler checked out (old ones anyways) just fine (or so it seemed). Upon closer inspection, the turbo outlet coupler had a fairly large tear in the shape of a T along its circumference and going along the "grain (for lack of better words) of the coupler

Now, here is the trick. The gash is actually closed initially under atmospheric conditions. Even after a few psi above atmosphere, it would open up. It was not until crica 4 psi of pressure that it began to slowly open until 5 or 6 psi when it fully opened up!! Its funny, on my was home, I kept thinking about the issue then it hit me.........what does the car do when you blow a boost pipe or coupler?? The car behaves like it does not want to rev and you have to flat foot it to keep it from stalling. Well, the same symptoms were occurring but only at a different point in the rev range!! Ahhhaaa!!

Thanks all for your suggestions (and Sentra for keeping up with this thread )

A picture of the culprit will be posted tomorrow.
2011-08-14 14:43:01
#27
Here are the pics

Coupler looks fine


Coupler still looks fine


Other side of the which Coupler still looks fine


Coupler closeup still shows no signs of breakage


Its is not until you actually apply some pressure that you can see the extent of the damage


A "better" look at the extent of the damage



And please, refrain from comments about what coupler was used (which this is one the reasons why I wanted to redo the intercooler piping). The new setup includes new silicon couplers.

Thanks again folks
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